Limit - the best crags in Tirol

65 »The ocean inspires even averagely gifted poets to contem- plate.« With a selfie stick he keeps his smartphone at a distance when he speaks this sentence into the camera. What’s he talking about? There’s no sea for far and wide. I’ve just rea- ched the end of the second pitch of »Ois Guade« above the Wemeteigenalm. Opposite, there’s another climber, fixed at the anchor of the belay, posing for the selfie. What’s he doing? »You’re welcome to overtake us,« he offers. »Thanks.« But I’m curious now. »What’s it got to do with the sea?« I ask. »I’m making an Instagram Story about climbing.« Besides being an enthusiastic climber, he’s also a university professor for geology in Berlin. Apart from being of splendid quality, the rock is also of great geological interest. Uh-huh! Approximately 200 million years ago, during the Triassic, this area was covered by the Thetys sea. At this time the whole cliff developed as a coral reef stretching from Steinplatte to Almenwelt Lofer. Hard corals and other marine creatures built up the reef with their limestone skeletons. At the end of the Triassic period it sank into the deep sea. Only with the formation of the Alps the cliff was uplifted again. Inte- restingly enough, this is Europe’s only dry reef. »Its origin is the reason for its extraordinary rock quality,« the German professor raves. In fact, it’s the only place in Austria where you can find such outstanding rock in such large quantities. Over eleven kilo- meters in length and with wall heights of up to 150 metres, the prehistoric rock face stretches from Waidring to Lofer. Its sight never fails to have its jaw-dropping effect even for well-travelled and wordly climbing enthusiasts. A visit at the orthodontist’s might be advisable. And that’s not exaggerated! Far from it! During his last visit Spanish climber Edu Marin, who was able to make the first ascent of one of the world’s hardest multipitch climbs in China back in 2019, commented: »It’s a miracle that this piece of perfect limestone is so rarely known around the world.« Local hero Markus Bendler, double ex-world champion in ice climbing and first ascensionist of countless routes, is convinced: »Here between Wemeteigen and Urlkopf, there is still potential for generations to come!« Over the past few years he and other local climbers have consistently been increasing the density of bolts on this sheer endless cliff. Another local who has taken advantage of the Steinplatte is Alexander Huber, who created some mentally challenging test pieces which seem like a sharp contrast to the perfectly bolted sport routes nearby. All routes, however, share the superb rock quality, endless jugs, perfect pockets, and sharp crimps. Moreover, a flawless foot technique is required for most climbs and if you love slab climbing, on sharp holds, you’ll find it here. Since climbers love to make analogies and this climbing style is also prevalent in the French world-class climbing area Verdon Gorge, the bluff is also known as »Tyrol’s Verdon«. Especially when rappelling from the Loferer Alm, the similarities with the French world-class crag become obvious: in both places the base of the routes can only be reached from above. The adjective »verdonesque« became the epitome of perfect limestone and is characteristic for almost all of the routes at the Tyrolian reef. Hold on! That’s a complete distortion of facts. Actually, the Verdon Gorge is no more than the French Steinplatté! Nowadays outstanding limestone is known as steinplattesque. Potential Ende nie! Markus Bendler in seiner neuen Kreation »A Hoibe« (10). Links und rechts davon ist noch Platz für Generationen von Neulandsuchenden. Markus Bendler in his latest creation »A Hoibe« (X). To his left as well as to his right, there is more than enough space for generations of climbers in search of new playgrounds. Steinplatte | Steinberge |