Limit - the best crags in Tirol

38 39 Gipfeltaufe Totenkirchl, Hintere Karlspitze und Kleine Halt thronen über dem Hans-Berger-Haus. Einer Sage nach erinnern die Felsformationen auf dem Totenkirchl an eine tote Riesenfrau, die dort liegen soll. Daher der eigenartige Name dieses berüchtigten Kletterberges. Der Name der Karlspitze hat nichts mit Kaiser Karl zu tun, sondern bezieht sich auf das »Kufsteiner Karl«, ein kleines Kar in der Westflanke. Und Halt bedeutet Weide, also Gipfel oberhalb der Almweiden. Totenkirchl, Hintere Karlspitze and Kleine Halt are the exotic names of the beautiful mountains above the Hans-Berger-Haus. Legend has it that the rock formations on the Totenkirchl bear a resemblance to a dead giant’s wife, who is said to be buried here. The name of the Karlspitze derives from the »Kufsteiner Karl«, a small cirque in the western flank. »Halt« is a local word for pasture – in other words, a summit above the pastures. Kleine Halt | Kufsteinerland | Feierabend Als Schreibender bin ich der Überzeugung: Ein Wort sagt mehr als tausend Bilder. Aber hier ist es tatsächlich anders herum. Christoph Schranz und Gebi Bendler genießen den feinsten Ochsenbraten aus heimischer Landwirtschaft und das eine oder doch auch andere Weizen. As a writer, my conviction is crystal clear: A word is worth a thousand pictures. Here, however, it’s actually the other way around. Christoph Schranz and Gebi Bendler enjoy roast ox from a local farmer and the one or other beer. In the light of our headlights we stumble towards the start of the climb. To the left, the west face of the famous Totenkirchl stretches 600 metres towards the pitch-dark sky. Christoph and I are heading straight ahead for the Kleine Halt. With its 800 metres high northwest face it’s the biggest wall in the Wilder Kaiser. Despite the early time of the day and our small 15-litre backpacks, we are already soaked through. »It’s gonna be a boiling hot August day,« Christoph declares. We make a stop and refresh ourselves with the ice-cold water of the »Mirakelbründel«, a nice well at the wayside. Christoph and I met for the first time in the Wilder Kaiser back in 2013 during our mountain guide training. Since then, we’ve become good friends and we’ve shared the rope from the »Koasa« to the Himalaya mountains. Undoubtedly, Christoph is among Austria’s best alpinists. The closer we come, the more impressive the shady northwestern face of the Kleine Halt becomes. Yesterday evening, when we were checking it out from the terrace of the Hans-Berger-Haus, the wall looked far more pleasant in the warm evening light. Any sunset from this terrace is something special and always full of enjoyable memories: memories of climbing adventures and, more importantly, memories of good times with old and new friends alike. When you happen to spend the night at the Hans-Berger-Haus, you will most likely make the acquaintance of Silvia Huber. Since 1990 she’s spent her summers on this hut, just like her father did before her. Today, the 56-year-old is not only an integrative part of the Wilder Kaiser, but also from the city of Kufstein. Silvia catches one’s eye when she’s doing business in Kufstein. Wearing two different shoes, being cheerful, loud and funny, she has her very unique way to deal with city authorities. On the Hans-Berger-Haus, Silvia and her team are in their element and give each and every guest a warm welcome – hikers and climbers alike. Nevertheless, the evening on the hut is over and we need to focus. Thanks to his light-footed climbing style, Christoph makes the first slab pitch look like a piece of cake. »Via Aqua« is the name of our route and the name says it all. Over thousands of years, the water has created unique structures in the rock and the upper part of the 1,000 m climb is a never-ending feast of distinctive water grooves. But as beautifully as the water has shaped the face, as ugly it can become during a thunderstorm. Within minutes, the whole face turns into a raging torrent. »If you’ve ever experienced something like this, you can save yourself a trip to the Niagara Falls,« Adi Stocker jokes. Not only did he establish the »Via Aqua«, he is also the author of the guidebook »Longlines«. The book presents the longest climbs of the Northern Limestone Alps and as you might have guessed, the »Via Aqua« is part of this collection. A whole lot of climbers have gained a special interest in climbing longlines, which has made the »Via Aqua« the most coveted route in the Kaisertal. »Approximately 15 teams attempt the route each year,« Silvia explains. »Some, however, tend to underestimate the protection of the climb. Even though the climb is well-equipped with bolts overall, the distance between them can reach 10 metres and sometimes even more,« she adds. In combi- nation with the length of the climb, this has led to several mountain rescue operations. Christoph literally flies up the last magnificent slab pitches. All in all, the route has 24 pitches and in the meantime, the oppressive heat keeps torturing us. Unsurprisingly, we are craving for our well-deser- ved after-climbing beer. Completely dehydrated, we reach the Hans-Berger-Haus in the early afternoon. »How was it, and, more importantly, what would you like to drink?« Silvia asks cheerfully. The answer is crystal clear. Thanks Adi Stocker and Silvia Huber for your dedication! | Kufsteinerland | Kleine Halt Dreamteam Die Crew vom Hans-Berger-Haus tut wirklich alles dafür, dass Kletterer dort rundum glücklich werden. The Hans-Berger-Haus’ crew always shows total commit- ment. They give everything to make climbers feel as snug as a bug in a rug.