Limit - the best crags in Tirol

104 105 ou will immediately feel reminded of the Western Alps as soon as you catch a glimpse of the distinc- tive twin peak of the Watzespitze. The wild, rugged glaciers and with their threatening seracs are truly impressive and in combination with the long ridges and steep faces many might feel intimidated. Besides being the highest summit of the Kaunergrat ridge, the Watzespitze is also considered one of Austria’s most difficult peaks over 3,000 m. Each route is challenging in its own way and due to its height, length and exposure, the Watzespitze can be seen as one of the most exciting alpine trips east of the Bernina range. The long east ridge is often climbed and serves as an ideal preparation for famous summits such as the Matterhorn. Therefore, also numerous Swiss mountain guides happen to visit the Kaunergrathütte with their guests. Unlike the Matterhorn, however, the quality of rock on the Watzespitze is of a much better quality and the hut below should not be compared to the Hörnlihütte in Zermatt. The team of the Kaunergrathütte around the Dobler family ensures that guests feel much more welcome and far better supplied than on the Swiss counterpart. Of course, this does not only attract Swiss guides but also many local alpine schools, guides and – need- less to say – climbers! The location of the hut is awesome! Within three minutes, a sport climbing crag can be reached, and in approximately 15 minutes the climbs in the east face of the Watzespitze. Meanwhile, also the recommended normal route on the Watze- spitze has been relocated to the east ridge, which is less exposed to objective dangers such as rock fall. Retreating glaciers impressively show the negative effects of global warming and the Watzespitze is no exception here. As a result, the glacier of the Watzespitze, the Watzeferner, has lost a third of its volume since the 1970s. Consequently, the old normal route should not be climbed anymore due to the steadily widening bergschrund. Therefore, Anna and Martin have chosen the route »Early morning in the sun« on the east pillar of the Watzespitze today. During their approach, massive pieces of rock are frequently falling towards the bottom with a roaring noise and cause a gloomy atmosphere. However, the rock of the route itself is mostly solid which makes the climb enjoyable and to large parts safe from objective dangers. Once the top has been reached, the view is just astonishing and it’s certainly the most impressive of all the summits presented in this magazi- ne. Large parts of the impressive Ötztal Alps as well as the Piz Bernina, which even tops the 4,000 metre mark, can be seen. »Just over there you can see the Schweikert,« Anna explains excitedly. »It’s also a great summit for alpine climbing«. This, however, is another story. Konsumentenfreundlich Martin Lienbacher in der 3. Seillänge der Route »Early Morning in the Sun«. Obwohl sich die Route im wilden, hochalpinen Ambiente befindet, ist die Absi- cherung glücklicherweise von wild weit entfernt. Erstbegeher Florian Schranz hat die Route so eingebohrt, dass sie für viele gut machbar ist. Im Hintergrund die Kaunergrathütte und die Verpeilspitze, an der man auch klettern kann. Despite the wild, alpine setting of »Early Morning in the Sun«, the protection of the climb is anything but wild. When bolting the line, Florian Schranz managed to make it repeatable for a number of climbers. In the picture, Martin Lienbacher is climbing the 3rd pitch of the route. In the background, the Kaunergrathütte and the Verpeilspitze, another playground for alpine climbing. Watzespitze | Pitztal | Y | Pitztal | Watzespitze