Limit - the best crags in Tirol

37 ugged, riven, steep: the 13 peaks from the Raucheck to the Laserzwand that encircle the Karlsbader Hütte in the Dolomites are true mag- nets of attention. Up there, that’s where you wanna be! At one of them, the Roter Turm, it’s a different thing: here the eye doesn’t give a damn thing about the summit becau- se down low it looks so much more interesting. As far as its height of roughly 50 metres goes the south-face of the Roter Turm is anything but gigantic. But that doesn’t harm the aura of this yellow-, orange-, grey- and blueish shield of limestone, which is enthroned below the horizon-line like an impregnable bastion of rock. Hundreds of people have walked by this face on their way to the most famous via ferrata of the area, the »Panorama-Klettersteig«, but it took some time until someone stopped and sat down to examine this labyrinth of rock for climbable structures. It was Herbert Ranggetiner, who did exactly that and, with a little help from his friends, turned the Roter Turm in Ost- tirol’s best summer-spot. Climbing on the Roter Turm is much more than pulling on small holds. Soon after arriving at a height of almost 2.600 metres one realises that there’s a different kind of wind blowing. One that doesn’t have anything to do with the movement of air. It’s wild here and rough, lovely and grumpy at the same time – welcome to the heart of the mountains! You feel their presence with every move you make and sometimes you have to grip extra hard. The bolt-protection is as good as it gets, but the exposure of the crag turns it into an experience with an alpine touch. The Roter Turm is a truly impressive spot, which offers great conditions throughout the hot summer months, but in regard to the variety of possibilities around the Karls- bader Hütte it’s just the cream of the crop. That absolu- tely has advantages. If your max-power is gone after a hard day of cragging, you’ll find classic alpine routes, via ferratas and picturesque hiking-possibilities right at the doorstep. These as well as the friendly and open-hearted atmosphere at the Karlsbader Hütte will make it easy for you to stay a few days longer. Roter Turm | Osttirol | R SIZE DOESN’T MATTER! Boa, ey! Das Teil ist nur 50 Meter hoch? In der Tat, aller- dings wirkt die Südwand des Roten Turms durch ihre Steilheit und Kompaktheit als wäre sie dreimal so hoch. Wow! And that’s only 50 meters high? Yes, indeed! Due to its steepness and compactness the south-face of the Roter Turm seems three times as high. DA WACKELT NIX! Der Dolomit hat einen Ruf als »veränderungsfreu- diges Gestein«. Am Roten Turm ist er allerdings bombenfest, da wackelt nix! Julia Schwaiger hat in »Rotzpippn« (8a+) Leisten und Kanten unter die Lupe genommen und nichts Verdächtiges feststel- len können. Dolomite has a reputation as an »alterable type of rock«. Julia Schwaiger examined crimps and edges in »Rotzpippn« (8a+) carefully, conclusion: Nothing wiggles at the Roter Turm, everything is bombproof.