Wilder Kaiser - Multi-Pitch Climbing

Vordere Karlspitze

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Difficulty
3+ - 7c
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Route length
120 - 500 m
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Sea Level
1800 - 2283 m

GPS Position / Ascent
All real-time data of the infrastructures can be found in the fullscreen view of the interactive map
The climbing area of the Vordere Karlspitze is divided into southwest-, south- and eastwall. On these walls are numerous tours of all levels and difficulty and some challenging climbs in a varied rock with alpine character.
The Gaudeamushütte mountain inn is recommended as a cozy base with its homemade delicacies and its sun terrace.

The following are three example tours. For more tours, see the "Alpin Wilder Kaiser” climbing guide by Markus Stadler (3rd edition Panico-Verlag 2021).
 
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Rock
Limestone
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Public transport
The free hikers’ bus runs daily in summer between the Ellmau Dorf/Bauhof bus stop the trailhead of the hike to the Wochenbrunner Alm Alpine hut. Passengers can change to/from the KaiserJet and Public buses at the Ellmau Dorf/Bauhof bus stop.

More Information at: www.wilderkaiser.info/mobility
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Journey
Heading from Wörgl or Kufstein on the B178 road, take the first exit to Ellmau and then take the first exit at the roundabout. Drive straight on until you reach the junction (green signs - leading towards KaiserBad/Kaisergebirge/Wochenbrunn). Turn left here, then turn right immediately after passing the bus stop. Follow the road until you reach the Wochenbrunner Alm car park.

Heading from St. Johann on the B178 road, take the first exit to Ellmau and then drive straight on until you reach the junction (green signs – leading towards KaiserBad/Kaisergebirge/Wochenbrunn). Turn right here, then turn right again immediately after passing the bus stop. Follow the road until you reach the Wochenbrunner Alm car park.
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Parking
Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1,085 m) - pay & display
Wilder Kaiser - Multi-Pitch Climbing | Vordere Karlspitze

Vordere Karlspitze - Ostwand

Vordere Karlspitze - Ostwand

The east rock face features compact rock compared to the southwest rock face. The routes here have been in use for many years and are often climbable in spring already.
 
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Walking time approach
1:30 - 2 h
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Difficulty
8
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Exposure
E SE
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Best season
Apr - Nov
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Number of routes
1
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Routes
Sportherz route
8 [7+]
Wilder Kaiser - Multi-Pitch Climbing | Vordere Karlspitze

Vordere Karlsspitze - Südwestwand

Vordere Karlsspitze - Südwestwand

The southwest face of the Vordere Karlspitze offers a relatively short ascent and good rock quality. Most of the tours are secured with bolts - but some of them with larger distances between the bolts.
 
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Walking time approach
1:30 - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
W S SW
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Best season
Jun - Oct
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Number of routes
2
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Routes
Wirtskante route
6+ [6+]
ABS route
7- [6]