The Treffauer southwest rock face is an ideal climbing area for shorter days especially in spring and autumn. The approach rewards climbers with fantastic views to the south. The Treffauer north rock face offers plenty of pleasant, cool spots in the shade on hot summer days. Climbing tours range from difficulty ratings 4-7 and are completely secured with bolts.
The following are three example tours. For more tours, see the "Alpin Wilder Kaiser” climbing guide by Markus Stadler (3rd edition Panico-Verlag 2021).
🞾
Rock
Limestone
🕞
Public transport
KaiserJet/Postbus stop “Scheffau Dorf” – followed by approx. 30-minute hike to Wegscheid car park.
More information at: www.wilderkaiser.info/mobility
🞞
Journey
Heading from Wörgl, Kufstein or St. Johann on the B178 road, take the exit to Scheffau. When you reach the Gasthof Maikircher inn located in the village of Scheffau, turn right in the direction of the Restaurant Jägerwirt inn. Follow the road until you reach the car park Wegscheid below the Restaurant Jägerwirt.
🐈
Parking
Wegscheid car park, Scheffau (883 m) – pay & display
Wilder Kaiser - Multi-Pitch Climbing | Treffauer
Treffauer - Südwestwandsockel
Treffauer - Südwestwandsockel
The Treffauer southwest rock face (Multerkar) is an ideal climbing area for shorter days especially in spring and autumn. The approach rewards climbers with fantastic views to the south.
The heart of the tour is the deep, wonderful-to-climb chimney, which lends the tour an Alpine character.
Mr. Sappl and Mr. Zott have prepared quite an adventurous climb here. The chimney, which forms the heart of the "Sappl-Zott - Tour for Adventurers," attracts the attention of Alpine climbers as they ascend. Well secured, it's a pure joy to ascend through this deep cut on the Treffauer mountain. For chimney climbing par excellence, look no further! With interesting phases throughout, the result is a well-rounded and adventurous tour likely to whet the appetite for longer Alpine tours.
🍫
Route overview
Rope
Lenght
level
1
35 m
4
2
45 m
6
3
30 m
5
4
20 m
5
5
40 m
2
6
30 m
5+
7
35 m
5
8
50 m
5
🔋
Sea level Access
1430 m
🞍
Sea level Exit
1580 m
🐲
Walking time approach
1:30 h
🄱
Climbing time
3 h
🐲
Walking time descent
1 h
🛬
Equipment
60m twinrope, 10 quickdraws
🛬
Access
Starting point: Wegscheid car park, Scheffau (883 m)
Follow trail no. 826 past the Wegscheid-Niederalm and Wegscheid-Hochalm to the intersection with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig trail. Here, go right from the mountain pines steeply uphill over the moraine to the foot of the rock face at Treffauer mountain.
Keep right at the gravel field.
The entrance is located at the lowest point of the rock face in the fall line of the clearly visible chimney.
🛬
Descent
The rappel route is located on the orographic right of the tour. Descent same as approach.
This variety-rich layback route extends on mostly compact, rather flat rock, interspersed with short Schrofen passages and walking terrain.
🍫
Route overview
Rope
Lenght
level
1
30 m
5+
2
50 m
5+
3
40 m
5-
4
35 m
6
5
30 m
5+
6
40 m
6-
7
30 m
1
8
25 m
5
9
30 m
6-
🔋
Sea level Access
1470 m
🞍
Sea level Exit
1750 m
🐲
Walking time approach
1:30 h
🄱
Climbing time
3 h
🐲
Walking time descent
1 h
🛬
Equipment
60m twinrope, 12 quickdraws
🛬
Access
Starting point: Wegscheid car park, Scheffau (883 m)
Follow trail no. 826 past the Wegscheid-Niederalm and Wegscheid-Hochalm to the intersection with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig trail. Here, go right from the mountain pines steeply uphill over the moraine to the foot of the rock face at Treffauer mountain.
At the gravel field, keep right, then head left to a small ledge with a wooden signboard.
🛬
Descent
Rappel back down between the ‘Entdeckungsreise’ and RWI climbing routes or descend on foot via the normal route of the Treffauer mountain. From the exit, head through a section of mountain pine into the Multerkar cirque. Then head left across a steep meadow towards a dark, cave-like hole. Pass underneath this section and, after a few minutes, proceed across a small saddle above the mountain pines. From here, traverse horizontally to the normal route leading up the Treffauer mountain. It takes about 1 hour to reach the entry point; descent as approach.
Tip: If descending on foot, leave your backpack at the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig trail.
This tour is rich in variety and includes slabs, water grooves, as well as a strong overhang and a traverse with an undercling passage.
Featuring a rather adventurous entry point, a grassy continuation section and an exhilarating final section. Towards the top, the November Sun route becomes increasingly beautiful. The entry point is located just to the right of a surveyor's mark. Things get challenging from the very start. The first few pitches are a bit overgrown but from the fourth this is all forgotten. A series of handles up a steep face leads to a beautiful slab, where you’ll need to master a small overhang with good foot technique. Nice moves! If the autumn sun continues to shine longer in the afternoon after you’ve rappelled back down, there are many more routes right next door to try.
🍫
Route overview
Rope
Lenght
level
1
20 m
6
2
40 m
5
3
30 m
6
4
20 m
6+
5
35 m
7-
🔋
Sea level Access
1440 m
🞍
Sea level Exit
1560 m
🐲
Walking time approach
1:30 h
🄱
Climbing time
2 h
🐲
Walking time descent
1 h
🛬
Equipment
50m twinrope, 12 quickdraws
🛬
Access
Starting point: Wegscheid car park, Scheffau (883 m)
Follow trail no. 826 past the Wegscheid-Niederalm and Wegscheid-Hochalm to the intersection with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig trail. Here, go right from the mountain pines steeply uphill over the moraine to the foot of the rock face at Treffauer mountain.
The entrance is located at the lowest part of the Multerkarwand rock face to the left of the survey point.
🛬
Descent
Abseil along the tour; descent same as approach
Refreshment stop nearby: Restaurant Jägerwirt
Wilder Kaiser - Multi-Pitch Climbing | Treffauer
Nordwandsockel (Schneekar)
Nordwandsockel (Schneekar)
The Treffauer north rock face offers plenty of pleasant, cool spots in the shade on hot summer days. Climbing tours range from difficulty ratings 4-7 and are completely secured with bolts.
This very well secured Alpine sport climbing route extends through nearly perfect rock. The key passage is a slab passage, which turns into an overhang.
🍫
Route overview
Rope
Lenght
level
1
45 m
2
2
45 m
5+
3
35 m
6
4
25 m
7+
5
25 m
6+
🔋
Sea level Access
1700 m
🞍
Sea level Exit
1950 m
🐲
Walking time approach
2 h
🄱
Climbing time
2 h
🐲
Walking time descent
2 h
🛬
Equipment
50m twinrope or 80m rope, 11 quickdraws
🛬
Access
Starting point: Wegscheid car park, Scheffau (883 m)
Follow trail no. 826 past the Wegscheid-Niederalm and Wegscheid-Hochalm to the intersection with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig trail. Continue north past the waterfall into the Schneekar cirque.
The entrance is 50 metres to the left of the "König der Löwen."
This is a very well secured beginner’s route for Alpine sport climbing.
🍫
Route overview
Rope
Lenght
level
1
30 m
3
2
30 m
4
3
30 m
4-
4
30 m
3+ oder Var. 5+
5
35 m
4+
6
40 m
4+
7
35 m
5
8
30 m
5
9
45 m
5-
🔋
Sea level Access
1700 m
🞍
Sea level Exit
1950 m
🐲
Walking time approach
2 h
🄱
Climbing time
2:30 h
🐲
Walking time descent
2:30 h
🛬
Equipment
50m rope, 10 quickdraws
🛬
Access
Starting point: Wegscheid car park, Scheffau (883 m)
Follow trail no. 826 past the Wegscheid-Niederalm and Wegscheid-Hochalm to the intersection with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig trail. Continue north past the waterfall into the Schneekar cirque.
The entrance is located a few metres north of the entrance to the Treffauer mountain at the hourglass (lion).
🛬
Descent
Ascend via the normal route from the Treffauer mountain to the entry point. Reverse the route to return.
Refreshment stop nearby: Restaurant Jägerwirt
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