Wilder Kaiser - Multi-Pitch Climbing

Kopftörlgrat

🞽
Difficulty
3+ - 8+
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Route length
160 - 250 m
🞱
Sea Level
2000 - 2275 m

GPS Position / Ascent
All real-time data of the infrastructures can be found in the fullscreen view of the interactive map
The Kopftörlgrat ridge extends from the Kopftörl mountain pass in the east to the highest peak of the Wilder Kaiser, the Ellmauer Halt summit, in the west. This impressive mountain ridge is composed of six towers. In addition to the Kopftörlgrat ridge itself, which is one of the most rewarding ridge climbs in the Eastern Alps, there are some additional routes on the Ellmauer Halt summit. The Leuchsturm in particular is the most important climbing destination in this area. The Gruttenhütte mountain hut is the ideal basecamp.

The following are three example tours. For more tours, see the "Alpin Wilder Kaiser” climbing guide by Markus Stadler (3rd edition Panico-Verlag 2021).
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Rock
Limestone
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Public transport
The free hikers’ bus runs daily in summer between the Ellmau Dorf/Bauhof bus stop the trailhead of the hike to the Wochenbrunner Alm Alpine hut. Passengers can change to/from the KaiserJet and regular buses at the Ellmau Dorf/Bauhof bus stop.

More information at: www.wilderkaiser.info/mobility
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Journey
Heading from Wörgl or Kufstein on the B178 road, take the first exit to Ellmau and then take the first exit at the roundabout. Drive straight on until you reach the junction (green signs - leading towards KaiserBad/Kaisergebirge/Wochenbrunn). Turn left here, then turn right immediately after passing the bus stop. Follow the (toll) road until you reach the Wochenbrunner Alm car park.

Heading from St. Johann on the B178 road, take the first exit to Ellmau and then drive straight on until you reach the junction (green signs – leading towards KaiserBad/Kaisergebirge/Wochenbrunn). Turn right here, then turn right again immediately after passing the bus stop. Follow the (toll) road until you reach the Wochenbrunner Alm car park.
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Parking
Wochenbrunner Alm mountain hut, Ellmau (1,085 m) – pay & display
Wilder Kaiser - Multi-Pitch Climbing | Kopftörlgrat

Kopftörlgrat

Kopftörlgrat

With over 1000 metres of climbing, the Kopftörlgrat ridge climbing area boasts many interesting and varied routes.
 
🐲
Walking time approach
1:30 - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
N S E
👙
Best season
Jun - Oct
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Number of routes
1
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Routes
Kopftörlgrat route
3+ [3+]
Wilder Kaiser - Multi-Pitch Climbing | Kopftörlgrat

Leuchsturm

Leuchsturm

The south rock face of the Leuchsturm tower is the No. 1 climbing destination above the Gruttenhütte mountain hut. It is visible from afar as part of the well-known "Kopftörlgrat” ridge. 
🐲
Walking time approach
1:30 - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
S
👙
Best season
Jun - Oct
🍫
Number of routes
2
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Routes
Whisky & Cigarettes route
8+ [7+]
Sex`n Bolts & Rock`n Roll route
8+ [7]