In the pre-Christmas period, conditions were perfect for mountaineering and combined tours on rock and ice. There hadn't been any snowfall for weeks, the little snow was very compact thanks to cold, sunny nights and mild daytime temperatures, and the ice, if present, was solid and hard. The decision to pay a visit to the famous Zwölferkogel north face (WI4, M4) was an easy one for Picco and his long-time climbing partner Paul Mair. Here is a short report from Picco:
A quick look at the topo of the first ascenders Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner, and off we go. Lightly packed with a half-rope and a few wedges and friends, we set off from the lower reservoir in Kühtai. We quickly reach the first small icefall. Armed with ice tools and crampons, we scramble up the approx. 80° steep ice upswings. The ice is bone-hard and brittle, so careful climbing is the order of the day. Then we walk several meters to the actual north face. We now quickly gain height on small snow ramps and polystyrene snow fields, until suddenly a steeper rock step threatens to block the way ahead. Fortunately, a narrow, slightly icy ramp leads up diagonally to the right, the perfect solution. The route continues with a lot of variety, often traversing combined terrain and snowfields, finally quite dry and steep to the summit. An impeccable ascent with the best conditions, so we could leave the rope in our rucksack the whole time, which is cool.
The descent via the stimulating but never difficult north ridge is the perfect end to our little morning alpine adventure. All in all, a recommendable tour with interesting lines.
