Where the Pitztal valley comes together to form a narrow "V-valley", where the eternal ice of the Pitztal glacier sparkles white even in summer. The "Hexenkessel" climbing area is located where the mountains tower steeply to the right and left of the road and the water of the many waterfalls plunges thunderously into the depths.
The gneiss massif is not a beginner's area, nor is it the ideal place to switch from the gym to the rock for the first time, but it is a real fun park for experienced climbers who feel particularly at home on routes from the seventh degree of difficulty upwards. Impressive lines such as "Wild Men Weekend" in the Platysma sector are great for warming up and possibly also for getting used to the rock conditions in the gneiss. If you want to start off with a crisper approach, because excellent routes in the ninth and tenth degree of difficulty await, you will find a dream 6c tour in the 3-star tour "Ezechiel": steep, powerful crack and intersection climbing. BAM.
The dance floor on the finest gneiss is open and just waiting for your invitation!
Author Susa enjoys the witches' cauldron
Pitztal: Climbing valley
In addition to the challenging Hexenkessel, the approximately 40-kilometre-long Pitztal offers a diverse range of crags for beginners, families, boulderers and fans of high alpine scenery. Right at the beginning of the valley, in the so-called "Outer Pitztal", young rock enthusiasts can make their first climbing attempts in the Jerzens-Hochzeiger climbing park in comfort and with lots of fun. Two easy practice via ferratas are also available and are ideal for learning and practising the correct use of self-locking devices.
All in all, the "Pitzi" climbing crag, as the family climbing park is also known, is a great preparation for more advanced climbing and via ferrata tours in the Pitztal. Like "Richi's Wall", for example . The idyllically situated small climbing garden in Stillebach offers a total of 15 routes ranging from easy to moderately difficult. All perfectly secured and ideal for first attempts at lead climbing thanks to the short distances between hooks.
Bouldering fans will also get their money's worth in the Pitztal! The "Mandlers Boden" area above Ritzenried, which opened in 2017, offers everything that makes bouldering fans' hearts beat faster: 55 bouldering blocks in the forest with over 170 "problems" ranging in difficulty from 3c to 8a. There is also a lovely sunbathing lawn in the middle for chilling out and relaxing as well as a barbecue area.
If you want to get up high and combine an overnight stay in a hut with climbing, you can hike up to the Kaunergrathütte at 2817 meters above sea level. The ascent takes two and a half to three hours - once you reach the top, the hut climbing garden awaits you with routes up to 65 meters long. The difficulties range from easy to moderate - the enjoyment is indescribable!
A colorful cauldron: the Hexenkessel climbing area
Ascent with a view of the rocks
Almost at the end of the valley, where the walls of the Pitztal form a narrow "V" and the snow from the Pitztal Glacier sparkles like a promise of winter fun to come, is the starting point for one of the most interesting climbing areas in the Pitztal: the "Hexenkessel". The starting point is the parking lot of the Kaunergrat and Rüsselsheimer Hütte. To reach the Hexenkessel climbing area, take the hut approach to the Rüsselsheimer Hütte, which towers high up like an eagle's nest. After just under half an hour, we leave the path to the hut - the rocks tell us that we will soon have reached our destination. We pass another cairn, snack on a few raspberries in late summer and the rock formation of the Hexenkessel rises up in front of us. The place is peaceful and quiet - only the rushing of the water can be heard in places. The view is towards the Pitztal Glacier, the Kaunergrathütte and the "Watze".
View from the Hexenkessel, photo: TVB Pitztal, Benedikt Falbesoner
The climbing area, which was completely renovated in 2012, is divided into the "lower" and "upper floor". The "untere Stock" in particular, with its many outstanding routes and lines including a beautiful meadow, promises a full day of climbing.
The rocks face south and west, and on very hot summer days it can get quite warm, even at an altitude of over 2000 meters. Accordingly, it is a great area for late spring, early summer and fall. Caution: Be sure to check the avalanche situation in spring!
Panorama picnic: The place up there is perfect for an extended snack after the climbing fun. Just pack a little extra food and drink, the 30-minute ascent is not too long and not particularly complicated ... Enjoying the panorama together with delicacies definitely makes up for the extra weight of the ascent.
Cauldron
Platysma, main sector, Panoramawand, Genusswand, Cosmiquewand and Pitzexpress. Cracks, intersections, slabs, ledges, ledges - the climbing in the finest gneiss is varied. The Hexenkessel has a high density of difficult routes. In the main sector alone, 10 of 36 routes are in the tenth degree of difficulty. A further 15 routes are in grades 7a to 7b+!
Routes: 86, difficulty levels: 5b to 8b+, orientation: south, west
Deep view of the Hexenkessel, photo: TVB Pitztal, Benedikt Falbesoner
Family & Friends
Families with an affinity for outdoor and mountain sports get their money's worth in the Pitztal. While families with very young mountain offspring can let off steam in the Jerzens-Hochzeiger climbing park or on Richi's Wall in Stillebach, the slightly older kids can have fun on a bike climbing tour to the climbing garden at the Gletscherstube above Mittelberg, for example.
A 2-day tour with climbing and an overnight stay at the Kaunergrathütte is a real adventure. The 2.5 to 3-hour hike to the Alpine Club hut of the Mainz section, which is located at an altitude of over 2,800 meters, is not without its challenges. But the high alpine flair, good food and a great evening in the hut make up for the exertions of the ascent. Right next to the hut, the hut climbing garden offers some rewarding routes. The tours are easy, but with a length of up to 65 meters a real challenge! Don't forget your mountain helmet.
Everything except climbing Petting zoo at an altitude of 1880 meters: Tiefentalalm
The Tiefentalalm, photo: TVB Pitztal, Chris Walch
The Tiefentalalm in the "inner" Pitztal is a gem for animal lovers of all ages. From Piösmes (municipality of St. Leonhard), it takes one to one and a half hours along a shady forest path to reach the alp. The pretty little house is idyllically situated in a larch/pine forest with a babbling mountain stream right in front of the hut. Chattering ducks, curious goats, fluffy rabbits and Haflinger horses on their summer vacation can be found up here.
Tip: Up to 8 people can spend the night at the Tiefentalalm.
For dinner, the hut hosts Franz and Inge Eiter give overnight guests a tough choice: barbecue by the campfire or fine delicacies from the menu ...
Coffee klatch at 3440 meters altitude
Café 3440, photo: TVB Pitztal
When it gets too hot in the valley and your fingers have climbed through, it's time to head up to the heights for a coffee in Austria's highest café, Café 3440 on the Pitztal Glacier. Refreshing temperatures and a view of over 50 three-thousand-metre peaks, plus coffee and cake - and because the panorama is so beautiful and life wants to be celebrated - a glass of white wine before heading back down into the valley.
Water worlds Stillebach
Kneipp, bathing, chilling is the motto at the lovingly designed Kneipp facility in Stillebach. Hand, foot and treading pools with tingling cold water stimulate all the senses and refresh you on hot days. If you like, you can jump into the small bathing pond to cool off completely. The large sunbathing lawn invites you to take an afternoon power nap, while in the background the masses of water cascade down in a steady cascade and the sound makes your pulse beat faster.
Jerzens forest ropes course
If you don't want to give up climbing completely on your rest day, you can let off steam in the Jerzens forest ropes course. There are 8 courses integrated into the forest at lofty heights, with rope bridges, tunnels, rope loops and much more.
Hikes
The Pitztal also offers wonderful day or multi-day hikes to some of the most beautiful peaks. Suggestions for hikes can be found at www.tirol.at.
Hiking in the Pitztal
Where to stay Mountain Camp ****
The location in Jerzens, in the "outer" Pitztal, is ideal for all outdoor mountain sports activities. Mountain bikers can set off on the forest trails directly from the campground. Families with children will enjoy the nearby outdoor pool in summer as well as a well-organized summer activity programme and a playground with petting zoo. The 4-star year-round campsite Mountain Camp is also a quality-certified climbing accommodation: climbing guides, climbing information, daily weather reports and much more are available.
Kaunergrathütte
The Kaunergrathütte is the Alpine Club hut of the Mainz section. At an altitude of 2817 meters, it offers high alpine flair and is the ideal starting point for summit tours and multi-day hikes. The hut climbing garden also offers great long tours for kids in grades two to four. However, the ascent of two and a half to three hours with luggage should not be underestimated.
Rüsselsheimer Hut
Vis-à-vis the Kaunergrathütte is the Rüsselsheimer Hütte. The Alpine Club hut of the Rüsselsheim section can be reached in one and a half to two hours from the parking lot in the valley. The "Hexenkessel" climbing area is practically on the way. The hut is situated like an eagle's nest and offers breathtaking views. The approach via a narrow path is not difficult, albeit a little steeper - little walkers can be enticed by the prospect of hut delicacies such as dumplings with sauce, Kaiserschmarren & Co.
Tip: In late summer, the raspberries are ripe and can be picked in abundance along the trail. If you like cranberry jam: Bring a tin with you and pick the ripe fruit in late summer and process it at home.
How to get there
By car from the north, toll-free via the Fernpass, Imst into the Pitztal. Or take the A12 highway to the Imst/Pitztal exit (toll sticker required).
Take the train to Imst station. From here there is an hourly post bus to all towns in the Pitztal. If you have booked an overnight stay in the Pitztal in advance, you can get a voucher from your landlord and travel free of charge on the bus from Imst to the Pitztal. The Pitztal leisure pass (5 euros, for the entire stay) is recommended on site.
Further information on how to get there can be found at www.pitztal.com.
Total areas
5 sport climbing gardens, 1 multi-pitch area, 2 via ferratas (Climbers Paradise), 1 bouldering area, 4 family climbing gardens, 2 climbing parks, 1 climbing hall
Best time of year
Depending on snow conditions, late spring to the first snowfall in fall. Be aware of the avalanche situation in spring for via ferratas and various climbing areas, such as the Hexenkessel climbing area!
Where the cranberries are ripe in late summer to fall
Family friendliness
The Pitztal is an oversized playground for families with outdoor-loving children. An overview can be found at www.pitztal.com.
