"I've met so many happy people on via ferratas that I have to be for it," wrote Reinhold Messner back in 1979. A great via ferrata experience and a minimum of risk - to guarantee both, it's good to follow the recommendations of the Alpine Club.
Checking the equipment
Here's a good tip: check the essential equipment for completeness and functionality at the starting point. That way, nobody has to turn back later at the start - or risk too much! For via ferratas close to the valley, we will put on the harness, via ferrata set and helmet at the starting point - but always in good time and in a place that is safe from falls and rocks.
The approach to an alpine via ferrata requires stamina and endurance. In any case, you should check your equipment beforehand so that you don't realize you've forgotten something at the start, Photo: Alpsolut, Österreichischer Alpenverein
Partner check
Before you actually set off, you should carry out a partner check. Two partners check the following points both visually and manually:
Is the set correctly knotted into the rope ring using the anchor stitch? Is the harness securely fastened around the waist and are the buckles tightened? Is the helmet optimally adjusted and is the chin strap closed?
A proper partner check and then you're ready to go, Photo: Alpsolut, Austrian Alpine Club
Climbing technique
The word "via ferrata" contains two forms of movement: climbing and scrambling. The better these motor skills are developed, the more rhythmic and elegant our movements become. And we save strength. Arm strength in particular - it is the limiting factor. First and foremost, we use our arms to prevent tipping backwards. They remain stretched out as much as possible, we only pull them up briefly during the ascent phase, look for a stable position and stretch our arms again.
Our legs are much stronger! The technique of climbing is the key to an energy-saving and elegant movement technique: climb precisely with artificial and natural steps. Do not choose steps that are too large. After the movement phase, position the body's center of gravity as vertically as possible above the step in order to transfer as much of our body weight as possible to our legs.
Mindful, rhythmic climbing is also the best way to ensure that we don't kick any stones loose.
Hanging around - two tips
Now two tips for the trickiest moment: clipping the via ferrata carabiners to an anchor:
1. to ensure that the carabiners are within reach when we are clipping them on, we slide them along the wire rope with one hand.
2. always clipping from a stable position and as soon as possible - before climbing over the anchor! In very steep passages, hooking the crook of your arm into the wire rope can make it easier to clasp the carabiner and allow you to rest briefly.
Carabiners should always be clipped from a safe position and before climbing over an anchor, photo: Alpsolut, Österreichischer Alpenverein
Resting
Keyword resting: Resting is part of the tactics on via ferratas. Especially before difficult passages, which should then be climbed as quickly as possible. Via ferrata sets with a resting sling offer additional help here. This sling is also particularly valuable in cross passages - the wire rope always remains within reach.
Spacing
Keepyour distance! The rule is simple: only one person is allowed within a segment, i.e. between two anchors! What's more: in steep, difficult sections, we recommend an entire free segment between two people to reliably rule out a collision in the event of a fall.
Distances should be maintained when climbing, photo: Alpsolut, Austrian Alpine Club
Overtaking
Via ferratas are in vogue. We will therefore rarely be alone and will also be confronted with the tricky issue of overtaking. Overtaking maneuvers require a clear agreement and it is important to choose the right place for them - e.g. easy passages, flat sections or crossings. Because even when overtaking, the connection to the wire rope must always be maintained.
Overtaking on a via ferrata is usually difficult and requires clear coordination, photo: Alpsolut, Austrian Alpine Club
Too many people can also be a good reason not to enter a via ferrata in the first place.
Simple measures, a few tricks, consideration for others - then Reinhold Messner will continue to meet many happy people on via ferratas in the future.
What else should you bear in mind on a via ferrata? Take a look at the article and video "Via ferrata: everything you need to know".
