The central piece of equipment for via ferrata climbing is the via ferrata set. It connects the climber to the rope like an umbilical cord. The accident statistics speak for themselves: almost all fatal accidents on via ferratas happen because the via ferrata set was not used!
The via ferrata set does not prevent the fall - but the fall to the foot of the wall! Falls on via ferratas are nota calculable risk, like falls in sport climbing! Via ferratas offer the worst possible "fall environment" and injuries are very likely.
The components of a modern via ferrata set 2 load arms withfixed sewn-in via ferrata carabinersshock absorber andtie-in loop
The via ferrata set, photo: Alpsolut, Austrian Alpine Club
The via ferrata carabiners
Via ferratacarabiners are tailored to the specific requirements of the via ferrata:
Large carabiners with a large gate opening make handling easier when clipping on.A locking mechanism prevents accidental unhooking.
A key quality feature of via ferrata carabiners is that they are as easy to use as possible, as we clip and unclip these carabiners hundreds of times. A convincing technical solution is offered by carabiners with a palm lock, which automatically release the locking mechanism when gripped intuitively.
Carabiners should be as easy to use as possible, photo: Alpsolut, Austrian Alpine Club
The load arms
The load arms of modern via ferrata sets are made of elastic band constructions. They appear shorter and therefore "tidier" and allow the carabiners to be handled close to the body. Some via ferrata sets have an integrated swivel joint at the base of the load arms, which prevents the branches from twisting when they are clipped on.
Another detail of some sets is the "snap-in sling" for attaching to the wire rope. This sling can also be used effectively in cross passages. Caution: The latching sling does not replace the attachment of the load arms!
With the correct via ferrata set, you are optimally connected to the wire rope, photo: Alpsolut, Austrian Alpine Club
The shock absorber
The shock absorber is the heart of the via ferrata set and we only recommend the use of via ferrata sets of this type.
Once the shock absorber has been triggered, the set must be replaced, Photo: Alpsolut, Österreichischer Alpenverein
A shock absorber consists of straps sewn together. If the via ferrata climber falls, the seam between the straps tears open in a controlled manner. This cushions the fall. This energy-absorbing effect is extremely important, as a static braking effect would result in serious injury or material failure. Temporary securing using webbing slings, rope cords or pieces of rope is therefore a life-threatening undertaking! Once a shock absorber has been triggered, the via ferrata set must be replaced. Even if the seam is only slightly torn.
The use of simple rope cords on via ferratas is a life-threatening undertaking! Photo: Alpsolut, Austrian Alpine Club
Caution: According to the standard, the effectiveness of the shock absorber is limited to a body weight of 40 to 120 kg. Via ferrata sets are therefore only suitable for children to a limited extent!
The tie-in loop
The tie-in loop is located at the lower end of the via ferrata set and is knotted directly into the rope ring of the climbing harness using an anchor stitch.
The tie-in loop is used to attach the set to the harness using an anchor stitch, photo: Alpsolut, Österreichischer Alpenverein
Finally: The lifespan of via ferrata sets is limited: After a maximum of 10 years, much sooner if used frequently and immediately if damaged, via ferrata sets must be taken out of service. The instructions for use provide information on this as well as on care and storage.
Excursus: Skylotec
The "Skylotec" via ferrata set takes a different approach to safety. Here, one of the two load arms is equipped with a rope clamp that is attached to the wire rope. This mechanism clamps immediately when a load is applied. Fall height and fall energy are thus kept to a minimum. One disadvantage of this design is the somewhat more complex handling.
What else should you consider when via ferrata climbing? Take a look at the article and video "Via ferrata: everything you need to know".
