In this article, we explain why it makes sense to train your endurance. We'll introduce you to a few endurance training options so that you can get a little closer to your vision of limitless fitness.
We've already told you a few things about training in various articles, for example about training finger strength, building strength or flexibility. This article will focus on how you can train your endurance.
Global and local endurance - what is it?
First of all, a few basics: a technical distinction is made between global and local endurance. Local endurance relates to the muscles that are activated in each case, primarily the forearms in climbing. Global endurance, on the other hand, refers - in simple terms - to your overall physical endurance status, i.e. oxygen saturation and transport in the system, capillarization, regeneration, etc. These and other factors improve through endurance training.
It can therefore be said that regular endurance training such as running improves global endurance - whereas regular route spooling primarily promotes local endurance.
Train your endurance properly - by climbing a lot, photo: Martina Scheichl
Training endurance properly for climbing
And that brings us to the big questions when it comes to endurance training. Namely:
What are the benefits of general endurance training?
If you train your general basic endurance (global) by jogging, this does not have a direct effect on whether the forearm is pumped quickly or slowly. It "only" has indirect positive effects, because running trains the entire cardiovascular system and improves physiological processes such as oxygen exchange, oxygen transport and also the removal of harmful substances (lactate) that are produced when you are pumped. Endurance training increases the diameter of the veins, making the pump more flexible and larger.
How do I train my endurance specifically for climbing?
The answer is very simple: go climbing. You could leave it at that, but of course we have a little more input for you.
Climbing is mainly about strength endurance. This means that you need both strength and endurance. One requires the other. In other words, if you have a lot of strength, you won't close as quickly, as the holds are, relatively speaking, less tight. Nevertheless, at some point the max is used up and you build up lactate, the later this builds up, the better the endurance.
Methods for endurance training
You can perform the following endurance training methods both indoors and on the rock:
Double lengths
You climb a route that you can just about get up, lower yourself down, pull off the rope, tie yourself in and climb it again - without a break. On the second attempt, you should fall out of the route, otherwise the level of difficulty was too low and the desired training effect is not achieved. Climb about 4 to 6 double lengths in this way.
Effect: Here you make many moves without many breaks in between. This trains you to regenerate faster and develop a higher lactate tolerance.
Basic training
In basic training, you climb at the level of difficulty that you can actually always manage grade and grade or fall out just before the bend. In this grade you climb 7 to 8 routes. The important thing is the break, which only corresponds to a so-called partner break. This means that you get on as soon as your climbing partner is through. The break is therefore only about 10 to 15 minutes long.
Effect: The short breaks require you to recover very quickly. You also extend your range, so you can climb longer and more after the training cycle.
Classic project climbing
Here you are at your maximum possible strength endurance range. This type of training is good because you are challenging your maximum strength just as much as your endurance. However, it is not so easy to implement (in terms of training) - a route that is too difficult will not have the desired effect on your endurance because you are constantly sitting in it, and a route that is too easy will not train your strength endurance. So you need to know exactly how well you climb and need a bit of patience at the beginning until the route really flows.
Effect: Improves your strength, tactics (quickly finding and using cliff/resting points) and technique while climbing.
You should start your project about 3 to 5 times per session, but make sure you have a complete break of about 30 to 40 minutes in between, sometimes even longer.
Training endurance properly - basic training, photo: Martina Scheichl
Your endurance training week and the effects
So how could you organize an endurance training week ? The following applies here: from difficult to easy or from hard to easy. So:
Day 1:
Climbing project
Day 2:
Double lengths
Day 3:
Basic training
Day 4:
Go for a run
If you carry out the training over a period of at least 6 weeks in 2 to 3 units per week (i.e. a total of at least 12 to 15 EH), you will quickly notice progress, which will have the following effects:
You improve lactate compensation, i.e. climbing with a pump. You improve your capillarization - i.e. the blood flow to the forearm muscles. You recover faster on the route and can shake yourself down. Economical climbing (especially in terms of technique and tactics) Mental strength
So quite a lot of factors that improve. With this in mind, happy spooling!
