Not all alpine climbing is the same. As with most other sports, there are also good opportunities to gradually approach this type of climbing when climbing multi-pitch routes. But what are the main differences to sport climbing and what is really new about alpine climbing? Maintained climbing gardens and unchecked multi-pitch routes
Most climbing gardens in Tyrol have a "keeper". This means that the routes, stands, pitons, etc. are checked at regular intervals and replaced if necessary and loose scales or stones are regularly removed or monitored. This type of service does not exist for multi-pitch routes. Sport climbing areas such as the Chinese Wall in Leutasch often include multi-pitch routes set up for sport climbing, but these are excluded from maintenance and are not serviced! This means that you cannot rely on a solid chain with a carabiner hanging at every belay or that these routes are cleaned and free of loose stones.
Sport climbing multi-pitch route on the Chinese Wall, Leutasch, photo: Thomas Wanner
For you as a climber, this means that multi-pitch routes also mean a higher degree of personal responsibility and the necessary alpine knowledge!
Master plan
As with all alpine undertakings, whether on ice, snow or rock, alpine climbing also requires a "master plan". We think about the following important points:
Timetable
A rough schedule is important so that we can prepare for what awaits us. The following elements are taken into account:
Approach Climbing time Descent (or abseiling) Breaks and reserve (!)
Depending on the length of the undertaking, this will determine the start time and the necessary provisions, especially liquids.
You should allow enough time for the abseil, photo: Thomas Wanner
Weather and current conditions
Planning the Martinswand in August is just as sensible as planning the north face of the Grosse Zinne in December, unless you like sweltering heat or, on the contrary, frozen toes. The tour has to suit the time of year and we also have to think about whether the conditions on the wall are suitable for climbing. Many alpine climbing tours are wet for a long time in spring and need a few weeks of warm, stable weather before they really dry out.
When alpine climbing, you also have to keep an eye on the weather, photo: Thomas Wanner
Climbing partner
In contrast to sport climbing, you should think very carefully about who you go climbing with. It's not just technical rope skills that play a role. Personal risk behavior and self-assessment are also very important characteristics that I question in my climbing partner before I climb a big wall. Open communication and addressing sensitive issues is essential in a rope team!
The choice of climbing partner should be carefully considered when alpine climbing, Photo: Thomas Wanner
Material
The fact is that nowadays almost no accidents happen due to poor or inadequate equipment. On the contrary - you are sometimes surprised at the abundance of new, unused special equipment such as friends in well-secured sport climbing tours. Our credo is therefore to adapt the equipment to the tour: How many quickdraws do we need? Are the belays well equipped or do I need to build my own equipment? Will we be abseiling over the tour or do we need approach shoes for the descent? These are the critical questions that need to be answered before we set off.
Topo
If you want to plan your climbing tour carefully, you can't avoid studying the wall topo extensively. The topo contains all the pitches and describes them with difficulty, length, special features or shapes (cracks, slabs, chimneys, etc.) and often provides information about the material required or important tips such as "Watch out for rope friction!" or "Obstruction!". As a rule, you should take these tips to heart - you don't have to repeat the mistakes of your predecessors.
Further information
The wall topo alone is not enough for conscientious tour planning. Experience reports, photos, information about the start, etc. are very valuable if you don't know the area yet! In the current climbing magazine LIMIT from Climbers Paradise you will find reports and articles on the most popular multi-pitch destinations in Tyrol. It's definitely worth a look!
With good planning, the alpine climbing tour becomes a great undertaking, photo: Thomas Wanner
All beginnings are difficult
Don't worry - no master has yet fallen from the sky and it simply takes some time and patience to get into alpine climbing. Choosing the right touring area is perhaps the most important tip to take to heart when starting out!
Here are three areas that are very suitable for starting out on a multi-pitch career:
Muttekopfhütte: The well-known base in Imst (Tyrolean Oberland) is ideal if you want to gain your first experience of multi-pitch climbing. The tours tend to be of easy difficulty and the protection and belays are generally very good. In addition, the approaches from the hut are short and, in stable weather conditions, two tours can be completed in one day. There are also a number of climbing gardens in the vicinity of the hut for practising and letting off steam. Karlsbaderhütte: The well-known climbing hut in the Lienz Dolomites is a top spot, especially in high summer and in hot temperatures. There is a beautiful mountain lake behind the hut where you can cool off after the tour. The variety of tours is unique: from alpine classics to exposed ridge climbs and well-equipped plaisir tours. There really is something for everyone. Nassereith: The multi-pitch routes on the right-hand edge of the Nassereith climbing garden are a good tip for late fall or spring, when there is still snow higher up. The protection is very good throughout. The descent is via the via ferrata - so there is no need to abseil down.
The location of the Karlsbaderhütte directly on the mountain lake alone is impressive, photo: Thomas Wanner
Climbing courses and professional trainers
If there is no passionate climber in your circle of friends to accompany you on your first steps, you can always turn to local alpine schools or clubs such as the Alpenverein, Naturfreunde, SAAC or ClimbHow. These institutions offer a variety of different courses where even advanced climbers can learn something new. Of course, you can also book private mountain guides for special activities: You can start your individual search at www.bergfuehrer-tirol.at.
