Few peaks in the Alps are blessed with a similarly characterful name: The "Wampete Schrofen" in the Tiroler Zugspitz Arena simply tops them all. Tyrolean dialect at its best: the "Wampe" is a somewhat ponderous belly, not least due to many years of drinking too much beer, and the "Schrofen", a term used in mountaineering, is a steep terrain often interspersed with grass and scree.
The approach to the Wampeten Schrofen, photo: Simon Schöpf
A "Wampeter Schrofen" should therefore be a mountain that is not suitable for a climber who is dedicated to vertical climbing. On the normal route to the summit, you will actually encounter quite a bit of scree terrain, but ironically, the western slopes close to the valley are a laudable exception to this, where exactly the opposite is the case: above the small village of Biberwier, you will find compact slabs up to 200 meters high and bombastic wall climbing like hardly anywhere else in Tyrol. But above all: in summer it is shady for most of the day, with a fantastic view towards the Zugspitze and Ehrwald basin. In short, the "Wampete" is one of the best destinations for warm days if you are looking for well-secured multi-pitch routes.
Best rock for multi-pitch routes on the Wampeten Schrofen, photo: Simon Schöpf
The finest multi-pitch routes in the Tiroler Zugspitz Arena
The Allgäu's first climbers christened these slab routes "Silberwand", not because of the silvery shimmering rocks, but because silver, zinc ore and lead were actually mined here 500 years ago. From today's point of view, however, we are more interested in the composition of the rock, sometimes you will find ingenious hole climbing lengths, then again technically demanding slab passages, then again the finest ledges. However, you should bring a certain level to the "Wampi", many lengths are in the 7th and 8th grade, there are no very easy tours here.
Climbing the "Hitzeflucht" route (8), photo: Simon Schöpf
Whether you are looking for a "Hitzefluch(t)" (8) or the "Indiansummer" (7+), whether you are looking for "Das Ergebnis" (8-) or are a comfortable "Langschläfer" (7) - it doesn't matter, the mostly five to seven-pitch tours are all worthwhile undertakings, there are currently 16 in total. And when you descend happily and contentedly to Biberwier in the warm afternoon sun after your work is done, you are sure to find an inn there to inspire you to shape your own "wampens".
Challenging multi-pitch routes in the "Hitzeflucht" route (8), photo: Simon Schöpf
The facts:
Wampeter Schrofen, north and west face, Mieminger Kette, Tyrol
Approach: 1 to 1.5 hours from the parking lot of the Marienbergbahn valley station (990 m)Routes: 16 multi-pitch tours, 6/A0 to 8Best time: July to SeptemberNote: Danger of falling rocks from the upper parts of the wall, helmet compulsory!Literature: Panico Alpinverlag, "Wetterstein Süd" (2016)
