The Great Wall of China lies at the foot of the Puittal, or rather, at the foot of the Schüsselkar. This description of the location should make your alpine heart beat faster. Many wild tours were developed here in the 80s and 90s. Their fame extends far beyond the national borders.
What many people don't know, however, is that there are modern, well-equipped alpine sport climbing routes on the Chinese Wall and in the Schüsselkar. This is an ideal playground for multi-pitch beginners to gain experience in this discipline.
The pagoda path
Right at the start of the Great Wall of China, this 4-pitch tour leads a good 120 meters up to the top of the wall. The rock is exceptionally good. The first pitch "5c" is technical and ends before the athletic crack intersection of the second pitch, which docks at around 6b. Once you have cracked the intersection and thus the crux, 2 more extremely beautiful pitches with drip holes and technical passages await you. The protection is very good with pitons. The chain stands are equipped with abseil rings and are checked annually by the Mauerfix. With an 80m rope you can get back to the ground with three abseils. If there are climbers in the main sector, be sure to warn them before throwing the rope down. In the past, there have been more than a few conflicts in the sport climbing sector due to "rope ends hitting from above". The topo can be found here.
Other worthwhile routes on the wall are Mai Ling and Shogun, which are also located in the lower sectors and are characterized by good rock and bolt quality. A little further up, directly after the Hong Kong sector, is the tour Sonne hinter dem Nebel by Matthias Robl, who died in an accident in 2008. A very beautiful, but technically more demanding tour in the eighth grade with 10 pitches.
The Schüsselkar
For those who have done their alpine homework and are not afraid of the long approach (approx. 1.5 hours) to the Schüsselkar, there are a whole series of impressive tours in almost all levels of difficulty. The best known and most popular are Wolke Sieben (6b+), Der Bayrische Traum (6c) or Erdenkäufer/Siegl (6a). The belays are usually well maintained and the intermediate bolts are also good. However, before you go vertical in the Schüsselkar, you should definitely read the guidebook carefully (Panico Verlag, Wetterstein SÜD) or do some research on the internet. Despite its beauty, you are in alpine terrain and the abseil slopes and descents are not always easy to find.
Traverse in the 3rd pitch of Siemens Wolf (4+)
