The 40-year-old Tyrolean mountain guide trainer Benedikt Purner can now look back on 25 years of ice climbing experience. In this interview, he talks about this rather unusual sport for many, what is important and what beginners should bear in mind.
Climbers Paradise: "Hi Benni, can you tell us a bit more about your passion for ice climbing, what fascinates you about it?"
Benni Purner: "The fascination of ice climbing describes moving on a constantly changing, ephemeral material. The material ice is never the same throughout the winter and fascinates me again and again with its bizarre shapes, colors and moods. It is cold, brittle and surreal, but you can still experience unique impressions through skillful handling of the ice. By next spring at the latest, however, it will all be gone again ...
When ice climbing, you have two large, pointed ice axes in your hands, but you have to work very delicately with them. Personally, I've always liked this contrast in this sport. Thanks to my affinity for craftsmanship, I found my way around the ice climbing tools right from the start.
The correct handling of the tools and the best use of the given natural ice structure have always fascinated me about ice climbing."
"Would you recommend ice climbing beginners with rock climbing experience to take an ice climbing course first before starting out on their own?"
"A beginner who can climb on ice after completing a course and has been introduced to the material is not yet an independent ice climber in my opinion. A two or three-day course is still a good idea, as it teaches you how to use an ice axe and crampons, which you don't need for rock climbing.
In addition, there are certain ice climbing gardens with already installed belays, which are particularly attractive for beginners.
However, independent ice climbers (planning their own routes, setting their own belays, etc.) need years of experience. For me, independent ice climbing is therefore not compatible with beginners."
"You train mountain guides, do you also lead ice climbing groups?"
"I occasionally offer courses in ice climbing. Interested parties are welcome to contact me by e-mail if they are interested in a guided introduction to the sport."
Floitental, "The Experiment" WI 6, Photo: Klaus Pietersteiner
"What tips can you give beginners?"
"First, the relevant movement sequences should be automated without equipment. Only then do the tools come into play. The sharpness of the ice axe and crampons is also extremely important, as up to 80% of the potential can be lost without them. Sharpened equipment therefore saves energy and provides safety. For me, equipment knowledge is an important part of a beginners' course."
"What equipment do you need for ice climbing and how much does it cost?"
"Getting into the sport of ice climbing is very expensive. For the ice axe, the crampon set plus helmet and a special harness, you're looking at around 800 euros. Then there are the rather expensive ice screws (around 60 euros each), of which you should have at least 12. Of course, you also need ropes and tools to build a stand. Crampon-proof mountain boots and robust but lightweight winter clothing are also essential."
"What are the dangers of ice climbing? How and where do most accidents happen? Do you have any tips for avoiding dangers?"
"The dangers of ice climbing are many and varied. Avalanches, the location of the catchment area and falling ice, for example, are sources of danger that need to be assessed as well as possible before the tour. There are sources of danger and errors both in the steep approach terrain and on the tour itself, and underestimating them can often have serious consequences. Temperature fluctuations are the most elementary danger when ice climbing. The optimum temperature for ice climbing is around 0 to -10 degrees. If it is colder, the ice becomes very brittle and fragile. If the connection between ice and rock is no longer guaranteed at too high temperatures, there is a risk of the ice collapsing.
Too many climbers in the waterfall also increases the risk of icefall. As the number of climbable spots in winter is rather limited these days, there are often too many rope teams on the route, which increases the risk."
Renkfälle, first ascent "Eisföhnig" WI 7, Photo: Alex Blümel
"Which areas are your favorites in Tyrol and which areas would you recommend to beginners?"
"The Pinnistal (Stubai side valley) offers toboggan runs and beautiful ascents on touring skis as well as a large selection of ice climbing tours. There is also a rustic, managed alpine hut there.
The Pitztal and Ötztal also offer some beautiful ice climbing opportunities. I would recommend the Sellrain to beginners who have already completed an ice climbing course. The tours there are around 2-3 pitches long and are recommended for beginners with a little background knowledge. If you like, these tours can also be climbed only up to the first belay.
The Eispark Osttirol also offers an ice climbing park in nature, where rocks are artificially watered by diverting streams, which is also a top location. There is something for every skill level here, without having to take a long approach.
Ice test festivals are a good opportunity for beginners and advanced skiers alike to try out equipment free of charge. I personally think it's great because you don't have to spend so much money straight away, but can get a taste of it first."
"Thank you for your information and we wish you an icy winter!"
