Ice climbing is probably the supreme discipline among the various forms of alpinism and is becoming increasingly popular. And rightly so! All age groups are fascinated by ice, climbing up frozen ice pillars to millimetre-thin ice glaciers. We present five ice climbing areas that are perfect for getting started with ice climbing.
Nothing is as fleeting as ice - just one day before you were climbing the route in the best conditions and the next day it is no longer there and may never grow again. We ice climbing fans are feeling the effects of climate change. Tours that were classics a few years ago are now no longer climbable and you can count yourself lucky if you still had the chance to complete them!
But where is the best place to start ice climbing? Definitely not where most of your Facebook friends are out and about. Ice climbing requires a lot of experience, which you can only gain through years of climbing. However, if you don't overestimate yourself, it's incredibly beautiful and great fun! The following five areas are perfect for immersing yourself in the world of ice climbing!
1. the Taschach Gorge
At the end of the Pitztal is the Taschach Gorge, which has become a real ice climbing paradise thanks to the work of Alfred Dworak. Whether you are an ice novice or a pro, everyone will find the right route here. The ice walls to the left and right of the gorge tower up to 20 meters high. The natural icefall at the beginning of the gorge, towards the valley on the right, is particularly suitable for beginners. The so-called "Dynamite Wall" in the middle section of the gorge offers steep lengths and some free-standing pillars for advanced climbers. At the end of the gorge there is a natural ice shield, which is again ideal for beginners. Throughout the Taschach Gorge, there are drilled stands and specially designed rope loops at the end of the routes, as well as plenty of trees for redirecting. A big plus for beginners is that you can also abseil into the gorge from above and thus try steeper lengths without having to climb them first.
Wonderful practice area in a spectacular atmosphere in the Taschach Gorge, photo: Benjamin Zörer
2nd Oberried Ice Park
Similar to the Taschach Gorge, the Oberried Ice Park in Ötztal also offers perfect practice terrain for people with no previous ice climbing experience. Where families flock in summer for sport climbing, in winter there is an ice park that is illuminated until 10 p.m. and is also suitable for a training session after work. Here, too, there are diversion options everywhere. Right next to the ice park is a cross-country ski trail, which is also floodlit until 10 pm.
Full operation in the Oberried ice park, photo: Benjamin Zörer
3rd Kühtaibacherl icefall
For those who already feel confident in lead climbing, we recommend the Kühtaibacherl icefall. With a rating of WI 3-, it is one of the easier icefalls. However, it should not be underestimated, as the upper pitches also include a few steeper passages. After the first or second pitch, depending on the snow conditions, there is a drilled belay. After this, a belay is made on roots, where there is already a lot of cord material. The descent is made by abseiling over the tour.
The Kühtaibacherl waterfall with relatively little ice, photo: Mario Kaeppeli
4th guesthouse fall
The Gasthausfall in Lüsens in the Sellraintal also offers several meters of climbing in various degrees of difficulty. In the left area there are lines up to WI 3+. Those who like it steeper will get their money's worth in the right-hand section (WI 4). In contrast to the areas presented so far, there are neither trees nor ready-made stands for redirecting! These have to be built independently in the ice.
Perfect conditions at the Gasthaus waterfall in Lüsens, photo: Benjamin Zörer
5th Luibisbodenfall
The Luibisbodenfall in the Pitztal is an excellent first real icefall, where you have to belay yourself completely, as you can cross out of the fall after almost every steep step and descend via the forest. With a rating of WI 4+ and a length of approx. 270 m, the icefall is one of the moderately difficult icefalls and requires some experience! In contrast to the Kühtaibacherl icefall, you don't abseil down here, but traverse approx. 300 m to the left and then descend through the forest down to the forest road, which takes you back to the starting point.
In the middle section of the Luibisbodenfall, photo: Mario Kaeppeli
Helpful sources of information on the current conditions at the waterfalls: alpine-adventure (Pitztal) Alpintreff, Tel.: +43 (0) 664 4434 684 (Ice Park Oberried) Alpengasthof Lüsens, Tel.: +43 (0) 664 2133 129 (Gasthausfall) More ice?
Click here for all icefalls in Climbers Paradise Tirol!
