Summary of a successful 2018 Climbing World Championships

What an incredible World Climbing Championships 2018 in Innsbruck! Ten days full of thrills, excitement, success and disappointment, entertainment and incredible climbing performances are over. And Jain Kim speaks from the heart when she says: "These are the greatest World Championships ever!".

The many highs of the 2018 World Climbing Championships

With a total of four medals, the Austrians and Slovenians achieved the most podium finishes at the 2018 World Climbing Championships. Local heroes Jessica Pilz and Jakob Schubert won two medals each, while Janja Garnbret from Slovenia won the most medals with three, two of them gold and one silver. Only in speed and para-climbing can no Austrian hang a medal around their neck, but here too there were successful Austrians at the start, of whom we are proud.

 

Jessica Pilz, Photo: Erich Spiess

 

The highlight for many is certainly the glorious start by Jessica Pilz and Jakob Schubert, who both won the world title in lead. It remained exciting for these two right to the end. Pilz came third in the combination on Sunday, Schubert even became world champion! Hats off to these all-round talents!

Jakob Schubert, photo: Johann Groder

The few minor low points of the 2018 World Climbing Championships

But what would competitions be without the odd upset? Janja Garnbret is visibly disappointed with her second place in the lead, because she climbs with the same performance as Jessica Pilz in the final, only she needs eight seconds longer than the Austrian, which ultimately costs Janja first place. Bitter, as she climbed all the routes in the qualifications - Jessica Pilz did not; the latter came second in the semi-finals. But the rules stipulate that the routes from the qualification are no longer included in the ranking in the final. The reason for this is that two groups always start on different routes in the qualifiers, which is why a direct comparison at the end is not possible. Janja is of course still happy about the silver medal and we are happy about the gold for Jessica Pilz.

 

Janja Garnbret, photo: Johann Groder

 

Sean McColl (CAN) is also not happy that he was eliminated in qualifying due to a points deduction. Like Romain Desgranges (FRAU), both lose points because the athletes (allegedly) touched a sponsor's sign that was placed on the route of the qualification tour. The case is made even more unfortunate by the fact that Adam Ondra took a comparable position and did not receive a points deduction for it. One can only speculate as to how this situation came about. Hopefully, however, more care will be taken in future to ensure that this doesn't happen again in this sensitive sport, where even small differences in temperature can mean the difference between victory and defeat.

The incredible show of the para climbers

Lucie Jarrige, photo: Erich Spiess

It's not unusual for spectators' mouths to drop open when the para-climbers compete. You can hardly believe your eyes when the blind climbers make their way through the routes. You would never guess from watching that the climbers are only told the holds via headset, while the audience watches and marvels in complete silence! The performances on the climbing wall are amazing!

The smooth organization of the 2018 World Climbing Championships

The organizers are also surprised and more than satisfied. The expectations for spectator and audience numbers were exceeded many times over, both on site and on screen. More than 60,000 spectators watch the competitions. The competitions also went off almost without a hitch, with only the bad weather at the opening ceremony spoiling the perfect climbing event. But since we climbers don't strive for perfectionism, let's just say that dancing in the rain is part of the authentic show.

The colourful supporting program of the 2018 World Climbing Championships

Climbers Paradise Village / Photo: Moritz Liebhaber

The supporting program was also authentic: all excursions to the Climbers Paradise regions, events, lectures, films, music evenings and climbing courses were always well attended. At the marketplace, the Climbers Paradise Village, both rock and plastic climbing legends showed what they are made of, as well as a strong amateur sports squad who put their skills on display in the bouldering jams. The climbing instructors had their hands full day in, day out when the gates to the marketplace opened at three o'clock and dozens of cheering children (and adults too) stormed the course areas.

And when everyone is happy, so are we. With this in mind, let's do it again: #Innsbruck2018 you were brilliant and the best World Cup ever! Gladly again!