Ski touring and climbing - two sports that go perfectly together in the Wetterstein mountains on Tyrol's high plateau near Seefeld. A day with firn and finger ledges high up in the Schüsselkar.
Morning in the Wetterstein mountains, photo: Simon Schöpf
Early in the morning at the shady parking lot: a solid eight degrees below zero on the Celsius scale and a biting wind. By the time the ski boot buckles finally click into place, our fingers feel like frozen lumps of ice. Quickly into the bindings, shoulder our rucksacks and set off. Which is a little harder than usual, because the rucksack seems to weigh twice as much. In addition to the shovel, probe and thermos flask, express slings, camelots and a 60-meter rope have also made themselves at home in there. Because even if it seems completely impossible right now, we still want to climb a multi-pitch route today.
The equipment for ski & climb, photo: Simon Schöpf
Cold wind and sunny south faces
But as is so often the case, optimism is the most grateful companion. "If it doesn't work, then we'll just have a nice ski tour," we think to ourselves as our hands slowly thaw out again - the pain subsides - the scenery in Leutasch is beautiful anyway. With every step through the forest we get closer to the sun, the south faces between the Schüsselkarspitze and Öfelekopf now shine down on us promisingly. Please, wind, let up!
With every step, the climbing goal gets a little closer, photo: Simon Schöpf
Change of emotions
But after the forest comes the sun - up on the high plateau comes enlightenment, the jackets go into the rucksack, without shade it suddenly feels like spring. The closer we get to the wall, the more the emotional curve shifts towards summer, the January sun is now almost mercilessly at its zenith. The worry about cold fingers turns into the fear of not having packed enough to drink, we have trudged through three seasons in the space of two hours. But better too warm than too cold, that's for sure. We continue to pant.
The path to the Schüsselkar, photo: Simon Schöpf
High winter in the Wetterstein mountains
Once we reach the start, however, we are reminded that it is actually high winter: the first few meters are covered in snow and - it doesn't help - somehow we have to squeeze our pitiful feet out of the sweaty ski boots and into the tight climbing boots. You could feel sorry for all ten toes individually, but that's the thing about winter climbing: nothing comes for free.
Climbing in the middle of winter in the Wetterstein mountains, photo: Simon Schöpf
Multi-pitch routes in the Wetterstein mountains
But somehow even these difficulties are mastered, the last of the water is rationed and the real main act of the day begins: climbing on what is probably the best rock Tirol has to offer. Rough water grooves, grippy overhangs, tricky slabs. - The "Phyps" route (7a) on the Pantherkopf may only have six pitches, but every meter is worthwhile. And indeed, we would prefer to climb in shorts, it's so warm by now, our skis at the start soon look like little toothpicks in the snow.
A warm climbing experience on the sunny south face in the middle of winter, photo: Simon Schöpf
An unforgettable experience
But the most impressive thing about our undertaking only really strikes us when we are hanging from the last belay, when we hear nothing but our own breathing: the complete peace and solitude in the middle of this wintery dream landscape. The Karwendel to the right, the Stubai Alps to the left, and apart from our hairpin bends, there is no sign of anyone anywhere. Even though our backs will probably ache the next day from carrying our rucksacks, our thighs from skiing and our fingertips from the sharp limestone: You never forget days like these.
Panorama at the belay station at Schüsselkar, photo: Simon Schöpf
FACTS: ski & climb in the Wetterstein mountains
The south faces of the Wetterstein mountains lie at an altitude of around 2,000 m and are perfect for a combined tour. However, this is only possible and enjoyable on sunny, windless days with a stable avalanche situation ("1")!
Season: The typical time for a ski&climb adventure is spring, depending on the snow conditions in March and April. However, if the avalanche situation is stable and the sky is clear, the routes can also be tackled in mid-winter.
Avalanche situation: The tours on the Schüsselkarspitze in particular have very steep grassy slopes towards the foot of the wall, which increases the risk of sliding snow avalanches. In typical firn conditions, this means starting very early and leaving very early (roughly around 11 a.m.), as the strong sunlight drastically increases the risk of avalanches from midday.
After the climbing fun comes the descent, photo: Simon Schöpf
Logistics: There are two ascent options to the walls. Either via the toboggan run (forest road) from the large parking lot in Gaistal to the Wangalm/Wettersteinhütte and from there via open terrain to the routes on Hinterreintalschorfen or Schüsselkarspitze (approx. 2-3 hours). Or, for the more easterly routes, e.g. as here on the Pantherkopf, via the Leutascher Puittal, whereby there is a potentially unpleasant, steep forest step to overcome (possibly skis on your back and trudge). After the forest, continue over flat, open terrain to the access points (often steep towards the foot of the wall). If the snow conditions are good, it is possible to descend via the Puitbach trench.
Literature: "Alpinkletterführer Wetterstein Süd", Panico Alpinverlag, 3rd edition 2016
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