Especially in spring, when stamina is still low after a long winter in the climbing gym, short multi-pitch routes are the perfect introduction to long, energy-sapping alpine routes in midsummer.
Bye, bye plastic holds - goodbye rock!
Climbing in the Rofan mountains, photo: Achensee Tourismus
A skier's joy was a climber's sorrow: the winter of 2018/19. Snow, snow, snow from January onwards. Snow in March, still snow in April and because it wasn't enough, snow again in May. While some happily posted their preferred spring color "white" on social media, others staged tulips in vases, asking when they could finally walk across flower meadows to the rock again ... But then it came, spring, with all its might, warm rain and bright sunshine. The rocks became dry, our hands wet: Rock climbing season.
A for endurance training on the Achensee
There are several multi-pitch routes in the Achensee region, photo: Achensee Tourismus
Of course, we could simply climb lots of baseclimbs in a row as training for long alpine routes in summer to push our endurance, but to feel a bit of air under our climbing soles and build up a routine when climbing from a belay - this is only possible in multi-pitch mode. We call it getting used to the equipment and enjoy a few short multi-pitches.
Short multi-pitches (alpine sport climbing): Gramai
Overview board at the Gramai climbing area
The routes in the Gramai climbing area offer a small Canadian feeling, short approaches and alpine-style climbing. Even the journey to the starting point at the Gramaialm is wonderful: it is a moderate ascent from Pertisau along an asphalt road to the Alpengasthof Gramai in the Karwendel Nature Park. The route can be covered by bike or car (toll fee), or - if you prefer - on foot. Once you arrive, there is a large sign that provides a good overview of which routes are waiting for you here and where they are located. The approach from the Gramai parking lot is extremely easy, taking 10 to 20 minutes.
"Rock it"
The 3-pitch route "Rock it", for example, is a great way to start climbing. The first pitch of 35 meters in the sixth grade is a successful start, not too difficult, not too easy, at least for us - then it's 10 meters up a 5b to the next belay. If you like, you can hang the second and third pitches together, which adds up to another 35 meters of climbing. After abseiling, there is still enough time for another "shorty".
Tip: This route faces east, which is important for anyone who wants to feel the warm spring sun on their back.
"Summit meeting in the Megastore" - Moderate tour with plenty of climbing meters
215 (!) meters of climbing spread over 4 pitches - but the first two pitches are moderate at 5+, followed by a 5c in the third pitch - after which we recommend a short break at the belay, including refreshments for the grand finale: a 6a over 55 meters. Now you've made it and can add some rope meters to your personal account. If you still haven't had enough, stop by the Gramai waterfall for a few baseclimbs and then enjoy the apple strudel on the sun terrace of the Gramai Alm with thick forearms.
The Alpengasthof Gramai is the perfect place for a short break. In other words: stay at the back and spend the night at the Gramai. As soon as the day trippers have gone, peace and quiet return. How about a walk or yoga on one of the alpine meadows in the soft evening light with birds twittering and bees buzzing?
Short multi-pitch routes (alpine sport climbing) Rofan
Multi-pitch climbing on the Rotspitz, photo: Achensee Tourismus
2 x 2 x 2 - make the climbing world your own ... What is almost too hot in midsummer is a real treat in spring: climbing on south-facing rock. When it quickly gets chilly in the shade and the rock is cold, south-facing walls are booming, such as those on the Rotspitz.
Rotspitz: A striking summit for those who like moderate climbing
How about the "Alaska" route, for example? Two pitches, a total of 45 meters in the sixth degree. How about that? Exactly: a dream and then you're spoiled for choice:
Either go straight for the "Africa": two pitches in the upper seventh/lower eighth grade, spread over 70 meters. Or you can climb a bit more moderately, for example Route #8: "Direct South Face", or Route #13: "The Insane Edge".
No matter which route you choose, they are all beautiful and can be perfectly strung together with two pitches each.
Achenkirchen climber Maria Wirtenberger is a fan of the Rebitschkante on the Rotspitz east face: "The breathtaking view of the lake always fascinates me, as does the exposure of the tour," enthuses Maria.
Multi-pitch dream in the Achensee region - from short and crisp to long and enduring, everything is included, photo: Achensee Tourismus
Klobenjoch: short and sweet
The Klobenjoch is the perfect place for those who really want to get stuck in: although the 75-minute approach from the mountain station is one of the longest in the region, the Klobenjoch is a fantastic playground, especially at higher levels of difficulty, as it offers steep hole climbing that has made many a climber go into raptures.
Klobenjoch "right wall/south face"
Sunshine in the best, well-secured rock. On the right section of the wall - facing south - one of the most beautiful routes in the sixth degree of difficulty awaits you with "Der fliegende Holländer". If you want to say a proper goodbye to winter, you can do so with "Snow of Yesterday": two pitches, the first a 7c, the second a 7a+, all beautifully technical. Short but powerful and a perfect start to spring.
Are your forearms through? Great, then head to the Dalfazalm and recharge your batteries with Kaiserschmarren, dumplings & co. After eating, you should have a rest, which is easy to do on the pretty sun terrace ... If you like, you can spend the night on the "Dalfaz", as it is only 20 minutes away from the foot of the Klobenjoch wall.
If you want to head back down into the valley: Relax your muscles and look out over the lake with a sundowner - the Atoll is the best place to do this. First a round in the sauna and then off to the terrace right by the lake to celebrate a little dolce vita.
All information about the tours and many more routes can be found at www.climbers-paradise.com/klettern-achensee.
