True to the motto "Safe on the mountain", we introduce you to belay devices for sport climbing. This time: the Matik from Camp.
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The Matik from Camp is a little heavy, but it has an anti-panic function and a solid construction. If you prefer thicker single ropes over 9.4 mm, the Matik is a bad choice. The rope delivery then becomes an ordeal and you quickly lose the fun of it. With modern thin ropes around 9 mm, however, the device shows its strengths and reacts very well. The quick release with the turret handle takes some getting used to and requires practice.
Facts about the Matik
The Matik is a semi-automatic belay device from Camp. The anti-panic function protects against uncontrolled operation of the release lever. The Matik can be used for single ropes with a diameter between 8.6 mm and 10.2 mm. The blocking mechanism works independently of the safety carabiner. However, a carabiner with a locking mechanism is required.
The partner check
The partner check before every start is an elementary safety standard. Both partners check 5 points: the rope knot, the locking mechanism of the carabiner, the function of the belay device by jerky pulling, the harness buckles and - lastly - whether the end of the rope is tied off.
The rope payout with the Matik
To release the rope, the guide hand pulls the rope out of the device while the braking hand pushes the rope into the belay device from below. Any excess slack rope is then immediately pulled back in and the braking hand slides back into the starting position.
The "braking hand principle"
Equally fundamental - even with semi-automatic belay devices - is the "brake hand principle" during climbing. The braking hand principle means that the belayer grips the brake rope with the braking hand in every phase of the belaying process. In the event of a fall, the braking hand fixes the brake rope and moves downwards. The second hand, the so-called guide hand, merely supports the rope guide.
The strength of the semi-automatic device is that it automatically blocks the rope if the rope is jerked, e.g. in the event of a fall. In other words, even if the belayer does not develop any manual force on the brake rope. The disadvantage of this desired feature is that the device also locks if the rope needs to be released quickly when an intermediate belay is attached. This can be avoided by operating the device in the so-called "revolver grip". The brake rope runs through the braking hand and comes out between the index and middle fingers, where it then runs into the matik from below. The thumb presses on the back of the device to prevent unintentional blocking. In the event of a fall, however, the Matik will still lock.
The Matik when lowering
When lowering, the brake hand holds the brake cable in place while the guide hand carefully pulls the release lever backwards with the index and middle fingers. This slowly releases the clamping cam. The braking hand now lets the rope slip in a controlled manner and controls the release speed.
The anti-panic function prevents possible misuse when lowering. If the release lever is pulled back too far, the Matik blocks. If the anti-panic function is triggered, the lowering lever must first be returned to its original position before the lowering process can be restarted.
Top rope mode
When belaying in top rope mode, the braking hand pulls the braking rope out of the device in an arc while the guiding hand simultaneously guides the guiding rope to the belay device. The braking hand then slides back up the braking rope in the tunnel grip.
SicherAmBerg - the program
Under the overall project "SicherAmBerg", the Austrian Alpine Club provides instructional videos on all relevant core Alpine Club sports such as ski touring, sport climbing, via ferrata and alpine climbing. But SicherAmBerg is not just about video tutorials. Rather, it is an overall concept consisting of high-quality publications, events, training courses and videos with the aim of increasing safety on the mountain or in the climbing gym.
If you would like to find out more about the various topics, you will find what you are lookingfor at www.alpenverein.at/sicheramberg.
