True to the motto "Safe on the mountain", we present belay devices for sport climbing. This time: the Eddy from Edelrid.
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The Eddy from Edelrid can be considered an exotic belay device. As it is relatively heavy and robust, it is rarely seen in the climbing garden. The device comes from the work safety sector and has an anti-panic function. The angle of entry of the brake rope does not matter during operation. The quick release method takes some getting used to. However, the Eddy is also easy to use with slightly thicker climbing ropes.
Facts about the Eddy
The Eddy from Edelrid is a semi-automatic belay device. The anti-panic function protects against uncontrolled operation of the release lever. The Eddy can be used for single ropes with a diameter between 9 mm and 11 mm. The blocking mechanism works independently of the safety carabiner. However, a carabiner with a locking mechanism is required.
The partner check
The partner check before every start is an elementary safety standard. Both partners check five points: the rope knot, the locking mechanism of the carabiner, the function of the belay device by jerky pulling, the harness buckles and - lastly - whether the end of the rope is tied off.
The Eddy during rope deployment
To release the rope, the guide hand pulls the rope out of the device, while the braking hand pushes the rope into the belay device from below. Then excess slack rope is immediately pulled in again and the braking hand slides back into the starting position.
The "braking hand principle"
Equally fundamental - even with semi-automatic belay devices - is the "brake hand principle" during climbing. The braking hand principle means that the belayer grips the brake rope with the braking hand in every phase of the belaying process. In the event of a fall, the braking hand fixes the brake rope and moves downwards. The second hand, the so-called guide hand, merely supports the rope guide.
The strength of the semi-automatic device is that it automatically blocks the rope if the rope is jerked, e.g. in the event of a fall. In other words, even if the belayer does not develop any manual force on the brake rope. The disadvantage of this desired feature is that the device also locks if the rope needs to be released quickly when an intermediate belay is attached. This can be achieved by stabilizing the device between the thumb and middle finger and pressing the index finger on the blocking mechanism. Nevertheless, the Eddy blocks in the event of a fall.
The Eddy when lowering
When lowering, the brake hand secures the brake cable while the hand carefully pulls the release lever backwards with the index and middle finger. backwards. This slowly releases the clamping cam. The braking hand now the rope in a controlled manner and controls the release speed.
The anti-panic function
The anti-panic function prevents possible misuse when lowering. If the lowering lever pulled back too far, the eddy blocks. If the anti-panic function is triggered, the release lever must first be returned to its original position. lever must first be moved back to the starting position, only then can the draining process be initiated again.
The eddy when belaying in the toprope
When belaying in the toprope, the braking hand pulls the braking rope out of the device in an arc while the guiding hand simultaneously guides the guiding rope to the belay device. The braking hand then slides back up the braking rope in the tunnel grip.
SicherAmBerg - the program
Under the overall project SicherAmBerg, the Austrian Alpine Club provides instructional videos on all relevant core Alpine Club sports such as ski touring, sport climbing, via ferrata and alpine climbing. But SicherAmBerg is not just about video tutorials. Rather, it is an overall concept consisting of high-quality publications, events, training courses and videos with the aim of increasing safety on the mountain or in the climbing gym.
If you would like to find out more about the various topics, you will find what you are lookingfor at www.alpenverein.at/sicheramberg.
