Even though Tyrol's largest lake is not a sea - although it is often referred to as such with a wink - it offers many, many maritime water sports opportunities. But the mountains around it offer much more: the climber can find everything here in the smallest of spaces.
"1001 possibilities," Bettina enthuses. She often comes here to climb, as she lives just a few kilometers away in neighbouring Kramsach. Her gaze wanders into the valley. There, the Achensee spreads out in a color palette alternating between emerald green and ultramarine blue. Although spreading out is a misrepresentation of the situation. In fact, the lake stretches out in length. It stretches over 9 km from south to north with a maximum width of 1 kilometer, nestled between two fat climbing areas: the Karwendel in the west and the Rofan in the east. Due to its elongated shape in the middle of an archaic mountain landscape, the comparison with a fjord is obvious. A stroke of luck for any copywriter.
Let's start with the Rotspitze in the Rofan, where Bettina and Sarah have just completed the "Wahnsinnskante" route and are now enjoying the summit panorama. Everyone has to find out for themselves why the Wahnsinnskante is called what it is. The madness - or let's put it more simply: 1 A - on the Rotspitze is not only the view, but also the pleasant ascent by means of an ascent aid, which offers an extraordinary offer: Alpine climbing with a good night's sleep.
Also 1 A - the ambience: an expressive abyss under your backside meets an absolute absence of fear thanks to excellent protection. Also 1 A: The descent without abseiling, the breathtaking sunset - a feast for the eyes.
With rough edges: Nobody is perfect. But it is precisely the angularity that makes a strong personality and lends charisma. The "Wahnsinnskante", first climbed by H. Kogler and J. Santner in 1959, not only lends the Rotspitze a special elegance of character, but also the entire area. Bettina Ritter on the 2nd pitch (photo left).
But the best of all are the climbs by the old masters: the extremely attractively secured "Alte Südwand" from 1917 or the Rebitschkante. It's amazing what the young 1931 old master Hias Rebitsch was able to climb with felt-soled "climbing shoes". Back then he rated the route a 5, later it was upgraded to a 6-, although many a 7 in the climbing garden feels easier today. What's more, there are now more bolts in the first 10 meters than Rebitsch used in the entire tour. Hats off!
Nowhere else are modern alpine sport climbing and classic adventure climbing as close together as here in the Rofan.
Those who love perfect limestone with perfect protection will get their money's worth on the Klobenjoch. If you like more secured water grooves on a waterfall that has turned to stone, the Issplatten are the right place for you. Those who see personal responsibility as the epitome of freedom and want to take care of the protection themselves can find their happiness on the north faces of the Seekarlspitze, Rosskopf and Rofanspitze, which are up to 400 meters high, or on the east face of the Sagzahn.
Wide-angle view Sarah Stenico has to concentrate on the next move in the "Wahnsinnskante". We concentrate on the amazing view: The 3,000-metre peaks of the Stubai Alps to the left, the Karwendel mountains to the right.
The protection here is just as poor as the number of visitors. Which is probably what freedom-lovers particularly like. Wild and lonely are the attributes for these corners of the area. But it is no less beautiful there. Quite the opposite! And with the "Ypsilon crack", which was first climbed in 1923, there is even one of the great sixth degree break classics waiting for brave repeaters on the Seekarlspitze. If you're not quite so bold but like to indulge in historical sightseeing, you can take a look at the last pitch of the rock monument from the Achensee 5-Gipfel Klettersteig - Seekarlspitze. Just a few meters to the left, you can shimmy up a little more comfortably, but no less exposed, using iron clamps and a steel cable - 400 meters above the sucking abyss.
"Water and mountains. The combination is particularly inspiring."
Yes, where is the handhold? Sarah looks for a foothold on the third pitch of the "Wahnsinnskante" (7).
Cumulus clouds are piling up above the lake, hinting at an impending storm. Time to end the long summit rest on the Rotspitze in order to catch the last route dry. Bettina takes one last look at the lake. "Water and mountains. The combination is particularly inspiring," she says. The Achensee area not only offers 1001 climbing opportunities, but also 1001 legends and nature tales - almost like in the ancient Orient. A stately village is said to have once stood where the lake now stretches out. But its inhabitants were so godless that the Lord sent a never-ending thunderstorm and flooded their village. "If you look closely, you can still see the church tower shining through the water," she says with a smile. The end!
LIMIT #2: Alpine climbing in Tyrol - the hot-off-the-press issue!
In this issue, we have dedicated ourselves entirely to alpine climbing in Tyrol. On 136 pages, we present the impressive vertical diversity of Tyrol. With exciting stories from 15 climbing spots that offer a deep insight into the history of alpine climbing in Tyrol.
Rotspitz south face / Route 'Wahnsinnskante' All climbing opportunities in the Achensee region All articles about the Achensee region
