There's one thing you need to know if you're an alpinist in the Oberland: you can't get past the Watzespitze and its majestic elegance. With a height of 3,533 m, it is not only unmissable, but also the largest rock in this magazine. So if you want to go high, you have to go to the back of the Pitztal. Header image: Consumer-friendly Martin Lienbacher on the 3rd pitch of the "Early Morning in the Sun" route. Although the route is located in a wild, high alpine environment, the protection is fortunately far from wild. First ascender Florian Schranz has bolted the route in such a way that it is feasible for many. In the background are the Kaunergrathütte and the Verpeilspitze, which can also be climbed.
The mere sight of the striking double summit is enoughto conjure up the flair of the Western Alps. The torn hanging glaciers with the looming seracs are impressive.
The ridges and steep walls are intimidating.
Baptism of fireAfter the successful ascent of themost difficult pitch of the "Early Morningin the Sun", Anna is beaming just before thebelay station.
The summit is not only the highest of the Kaunergrat, but is also undoubtedly one of the most difficult three-thousand-metre peaks in Austria. All routes are serious alpine undertakings, making the mountain one of the most exciting mountaineering destinations east of the Bernina. Even Swiss mountain guides value the long east ridge on the Watzespitze as an ideal preparation tour for the Matterhorn and therefore like to visit the Kaunergrathütte with their guests.
In contrast to the Matterhorn, however, the rock on the Watzespitze is bombproof and the Kaunergrathütte cannot be compared with the mass catering at the Swiss Hörnlihütte. The hut team around the Dobler family ensures a cozy stay that you could never get on the Matterhorn. This homely hut atmosphere in combination with the beautiful touring possibilities mean that not only the Swiss like to come, but also local alpine schools hold their courses there. What's more, the access points are just a stone's throw away from the hut. You can reach the climbing garden in three minutes and the climbing routes on the east face in 15 minutes. In the meantime, the recommended normal route to the summit also leads through the east face or, more precisely, via the east ridge. Climate change is to blame for this.
Delusions of grandeur Here you are not only served the highest mountain in the magazine, but also the longest approach. You should allow three hours to reach the hut. But the effort is worth it! The last section of the trail leads over a beautiful lateral moraine.
Nowhere else can you see global warming progressing as clearly as on the melting glaciers. The mass of the Watzeferner has decreased by a third since the 1970s. The result: the old normal ascent to the Watzespitze via the glacier is no longer recommended because the bergschrund is getting bigger and the rocks are melting out. The result can be heard everywhere: Boulders thunder down into the valley. In the route "Early Morning in the Sun", which is on Anna and Martin's program today, the rumbling soundscape in the background also accompanies the climbing adventure. But on the route itself, the rock is compact.
They head towards the summit on solid primary rock. The panorama from there is the most impressive we can offer in this magazine.
Balancing act Push, push, push. Anna Neumann at the crux of the 4th pitch. The rough and compact gneiss feels good.
The ice giants of the Ötztal Alps lie ahead of them and to the west, a 4,000-meter peak, the Piz Bernina, comes into view.
"The glaciers are the earth's clinical thermometer,"
Anna says sadly as she looks down from the summit at the ever-shrinking Watzeferner. Then her gaze wanders to the other side into the Kaunertal and her voice becomes euphoric again: "You can also climb over there on the Schweikert," she says to her climbing partner. But that's another story.
Climate-neutral Martin in the golden-brown gneiss. In the background you can see the last remnants of the Ferners, a glacier in western Tyrol that has been severely affected by climate change. The name is derived from firn. The volume of the Watzeferner has halved in the last 100 years - that's not even the blink of an eye in terms of geological history.
LIMIT #2: Alpine climbing in Tyrol - the hot-off-the-press issue!
In this issue, we have dedicated ourselves entirely to alpine climbing in Tyrol. On 136 pages, we present the impressive vertical diversity of Tyrol. With exciting stories from 15 climbing spots that offer a deep insight into the history of alpine climbing in Tyrol.
Route and topo Watzespitze / Route 'Early morning in the sun' All climbing opportunities in the Pitztal region in the Tyrolean Oberland All articles about the Pitztal
