The Götterwandl near Nassereith in the Imst vacation region is well known among climbers of higher levels of difficulty and is literally besieged by German and Austrian climbers during long periods of bad weather. It's not far across the border, so it's hardly surprising that on some weekends it's as Bavarian as the Schleier waterfall. In principle, this is not a problem, as there are plenty of tours of varying degrees of difficulty on the Götterwandl.
General renovation
The main problem, however, is the deteriorating protection. As complaints and doubts about the Götterwandl near Nassereith were piling up at the Climbers Paradise hazard reporting office, this project was taken in hand in summer 2017 and a large part of the old and rusty straddle anchors were replaced with new bolts. Under the direction of Mike Gabl, the wall was then completely renovated over several days and retrofitted with A4 bolts. The belays were also checked and old fixed slings removed. There were plenty of them, by the way. As is well known, the trough goes to the well until it breaks. Climbers seem to test this truism again and again.
Project planning tips:
Here are a few good tips for all projecting enthusiasts:
Are bolts loose?
When bouldering out a route for the first time, pay particular attention to fixed slings and loose bolts. If in doubt, swap quickdraws or tighten bolts slightly. No false greed at this point. A ground-in carabiner can be life-threatening - replacing it costs around 6 euros!
Are hooks or nuts rusty?
On older routes, you should check whether the pitons are rusty and whether the nuts are loose. If necessary, make a report or contact local keepers.
Better to practise individual sequences
Sometimes it makes sense not to boulder projects in their entirety, but to take out individual sequences and work on them. Victory or defeat is often decided in the "microbeta" area. This means that the smallest changes in grip or body position can make all the difference.
Angela Eiter can often be found on the Götterwandl, here in Zerirs (8c+)
Brush off after every attempt
Small holds or open slopers should be brushed off with a bouldering brush after every attempt. Boulderers do not make a serious attempt without meticulously brushing off the important holds. Rope climbers can learn a lot from this.
Allow yourself to rest
After completing a lengthy project, you should treat yourself to a relaxing day of climbing and enjoy your success. It's good for the soul and for climbing motivation!
