Starkenbach in the Tirol West vacation region
What is frightening in summer is a joy in late fall: a south-facing wall! Starkenbach in the Tirol West vacation region is a prime example of this, which has been neglected this summer, unless you got up with the chickens to take advantage of the cool mornings. From midday onwards, the sun was beating down shamelessly on the wall - but that's over now, so there are now over 300 fantastic routes available for sport climbing again, and all without burning your fingers on the hot rock. At most, you might lose a bit of skin in the sometimes steep and rough wall climbing ...
And the sun? It's now warming our backs pleasantly and, who knows, there's probably still time for a T-shirt tour or two in this fall, which feels like late summer. Meanwhile, the slanting sun conjures up a golden-yellow royal face for the Inn, which flows gently down below. The traditional "Starkenbach" climbing area, known to many forty-somethings as "Affenhimmel", offers 16 sectors. With routes such as "Zauberlehrling" (6b), "Via Utopia" (7a) and "Süßes Gift" (7a+), Starkenbach has been enchanting its climbing public time and time again since the 1980s. "Sweet poison" sums it up perfectly and so, on the descent, people like to say "We could do it again...".
Geisterschmiedwand in Kufsteinerland
When a friend talks about "ghosting", I immediately know what she means. In one sentence, it means: "We could go climbing again on the Geisterschmiedwand wallin Kufsteinerland." "Ghosting", that is ... Although: to be able to move up this wall as fluffy and light as a ghost, you need strength and stamina - large portions of both don't hurt. Those who have both will have a lot of fun in the holes, ledges and hangers. A total of 60 routes can be climbed. Climbers who are comfortable with the 8th French grade will have a lot of fun. Those who climb more difficult routes are also very welcome here. For example, "The long way to the wheat beer" (8b) is tempting. But once you've managed this, there are numerous cafés and pubs along the Inn in nearby Kufstein that are happy to serve you a cold drink - with or without alcohol. Certainly an autumn highlight: Climb the Umlenker with the last rays of sunshine and enjoy the rooftops of Kufstein bathed in golden light.
Great Wall of China in the Olympiaregion Seefeld
A rock formation that is absolutely worthy of its mighty name: the Great Wall of China in the Olympiaregion Seefeld. The rock jewel lies strikingly above the Leutasch and is perfectly visible from afar, just like the "Chinese original". With an impressive width of several hundred meters and a height of up to 150 meters, it regularly makes climbers' hearts beat faster - whether it's at the mere thought of climbing there or when you're on one of the parade routes, such as "Puls 2000" - the route is considered by connoisseurs and experts to be the most beautiful of its kind in grade 7c+.
The rock: grippy weathered limestone, which is normally only found in the high mountains - here it is very earthly close to the valley: only 20 minutes separate climbers from the wall when viewed from the parking lot. Over 180 routes spread across 11 sectors invite you to dance on the rocks. But there's no standard dancing and a bit of pushing and shoving here. In other words: the "wall" is really fun for those who are on their way up the 8th French grade. And so you can confidently enter the "Watschenmann" (7b+) without suffering any major injuries.
Incidentally, the Mauerfix association has been renovating many routes since 2017. Where there used to be rusty bolts, there are now new adhesive bolts in the injection mortar. And where old rapid links used to hang, there are now safe chain stands with steel carabiners.
Hanger in the Tiroler Zugspitz Arena
The Tiroler Zugspitz Arena region is a magnificent playground for sport climbing: In summer, the fresh, high alpine air beckons with magnificent single and multi-pitch routes on the Plattspitzen. Now, in late fall, climbers flock to the Hanger, a sport climbing area in the valley. The "Hanger" is located in no man's land between Bavaria and Tyrol, with many interesting lines. Above all, its beautiful rock pattern and impressive overhangs make your fingers tingle. The approach is perfect for sport climbers: 5 minutes from the parking lot on the road. The base of the wall is terraced, which also makes the belayer happy. The routes demand strength - if you want to build them up further, this is more or less a climbing gym - but with a fresh air guarantee and free of membership fees. Thanks to the good location and the short approach, this is definitely an area with repeat potential a là: "We could do it again" or: "Just one more time, then ..."
