If you want to get closer and closer to the clouds and climb the higher mountains in your home country, sooner or later you will come to glaciated terrain. But how do I move around there, how do I rescue myself from a crevasse? These are all questions that you will be confronted with on alpine tours. As with alpine climbing, the outdoor manufacturer Ortovox has now developed the "Safety Academy Lab Ice" in addition to the "Safety Academy Lab Rock".
The video series, developed with experts, deals with the topic of alpine tours and offers a sound theoretical basis for all aspiring alpine tourers. Whether it's crevasse climbing techniques, moving around with crampons or knot tying - this video series has a lot of added value for all mountain sports enthusiasts!
Above the clouds, photo: Benjamin Zörer
What equipment do I need?
But what do I need on an alpine tour? Is a lightweight crampon enough or do I need a full 12-point crampon? What length should my ice axe be? Should it be curved or should it be straight? Which boot for which crampon? Full frame or conditionally crampon-compatible?
The Ortovox Safety Academy Lab Ice has the answers to all these questions.
A little knot theory
Which knots should mountaineers who want to go on an alpine tour know how to tie? The figure of eight from sport climbing isn't bad, but you won't get far with just that. Knots such as half mast throw, mast throw, prusik ... should be automated. Can't you do these yet? Don't worry, state-certified mountain guides will show you step by step how to tie each knot and when to use it in the videos on the subject of knots.
On the way in the crevasse labyrinth, photo: Hansi Heckmair
How do I move in glaciated terrain?
Moving around in glaciated terrain is a little different than on a hiking trail. When do I put on the crampons? How do I put them on? Do I rope myself in? If so, how?
Walking with crampons is a lot more strenuous than conventional walking and requires different techniques due to the sharp points. Depending on the terrain and steepness, try to use the all-points technique for as long as possible to protect your calves. If the terrain becomes steeper, you first switch to the mixed technique before moving forward using only the frontal points. But how do I traverse a slope with crampons? How do I use my ice axe?
Once you have put on your crampons, the question quickly arises: to rope up or not. This depends very much on the glacier and your own knowledge of it! The basic rule is: in glaciated terrain you should rope up! But how, with which knot? Do I tie myself directly into the rope? How many meters should there be between the individual members of a rope team?
You will also find answers to these questions in the Safety Academy Lab Ice!
Ice Lab - crevasse rescue should be practiced regularly, photo: Benjamin Zörer
What to do in the event of a crevasse fall?
What do I do if the dreaded crevasse fall occurs? The first thing to do is to hold the fall and then create a secure anchorage in order to transfer the load to it and begin the rescue. Depending on the terrain, you can choose between a T-anchor or, in the case of solid ice, an ice screw or ice hourglass.
The rescue methods differ depending on the size of the rope team. For example, in a large rope team, it is usually very easy to pull the fallen person up using a team hoist without any deflections etc., but in a 2-man rope team the whole thing becomes a lot more complicated! It is therefore always important to refresh and consolidate the skills you have learned before every alpine touring season!
How the various techniques work is explained step by step and easy to follow in the individual videos.
Digital information platform for alpine tours
With the Safety Academy Lab Ice, Ortovox has created a video series with great added value! However, it cannot replace a one-week alpine touring course with a mountain guide! However, the videos are an excellent preparation or supplement!
With this in mind, I wish you a successful and hopefully injury-free alpine touring season!
