Heinz Zak opens the newly designed "Sonnenplatten Scharnitz" climbing garden in the Olympiaregion Seefeld. 60 routes from the third to the eighth level of difficulty (UIAA), all perfectly bolted, invite families, beginners and intermediates to enjoy climbing in the grippy Wetterstein limestone.
"Grias enk, sche das kommen seids", Heinz Zak greets his guests personally - either with a handshake or a firm hug. It's Friday afternoon, September 6, 2019 - opening day for the "Sonnenplatten Scharnitz" climbing garden.
From right to left: Josef Margreiter, Peter Janschek, Heinz Zak, Stefan Draxl, Alexander Gaugg, Alois Seyrling, Stephanie Frezzini, Photo: Olympiaregion Seefeld
A celebration attended not only by press and tourism representatives, but also by many locals, climbing enthusiasts and, of course, Zak's wife Geli. She brings cheese and bacon and distributes everything on the decorated tables - everyone knows each other and everyone is happy. The only thing that's stiff this afternoon is the breeze whistling across the new chill-out area - autumn is making its presence felt with a bang.
The newly designed Sonnenplatten Scharnitz climbing garden was ceremoniously opened, photo: Olympiaregion Seefeld
Nine degrees Celsius, drizzling rain ... The good mood is not affected by the weather. After everyone has been welcomed, Zak invites the helpers and sponsors to "meet and greet" and spreads good cheer every second with his passion for climbing and for his home town of Scharnitz. Josef Margreiter, Head of Tirol Holding "Lebensraum 4.0", and Alois Seyrling, Chairman of the Seefeld Tourism Association, are also among the introductions. Both tell - extremely humorous - anecdotes about their mountain experiences with the extreme climber and mountain photographer. Zak stands in the middle and radiates a deep sense of satisfaction. The Sonnenplatten project: a matter of the heart, for the climber, the helpers and supporters alike.
The idea was born two years ago, not least because Zak lives just 150 meters from the climbing garden as the crow flies. According to him, he did not want to see an accident happen because the existing routes had not been renovated for decades. Added to this was the wonderful fact that the bypass around Scharnitz and the associated traffic calming opened up new tourist opportunities, as Stefan Draxl, municipal councillor of Scharnitz, explains. The Sonnenplatten Scharnitz project was born.
Everyone agrees that the financing was less of a problem. It was much more a matter of finding good compromises: From A for compensation area to N for nature conservation to P for parking area. Heinz Zak says: "If we hadn't received permission for a parking lot, the project would have been dead for me." There are certainly good parking facilities in Scharnitz, but these are on the other side of the valley, at the entrance to the Karwendel valley, and the risk of parking the vehicle at the houses in front of the climbing garden was too great for Zak from Scharnitz. The resentment would have been inevitable. And so the parking lot was granted - deliberately limited to 1.5 hours parking time, by the way. Zak gives a direct explanation: "Because otherwise one or two bikers or hikers would save the parking fees - because the parking lot for the Karwendel valley costs a bit. And in 1.5 hours, according to the calculation, Zak explains with a mischievous laugh, even the fastest cyclist or hiker will not be back from their Karwendel bike-hike tour. Climbers who want to climb for longer than 1.5 hours can continue to turn their parking meter ...
A climbing garden to suit the taste of the climbing old master
Heinz Zak (right) is looking forward to climbing in the Sonnenplatten Scharnitz climbing garden, photo: Olympiaregion Seefeld
After the entertaining and extremely amusing round of introductions, Heinz Zak invites us to climb together. Just try it out, experience the fantastic rock and have fun. Josef Margreiter and Alois Seyrling don't need to be asked twice. Waistbelt fastened, climbing helmet on and climbing shoes in hand, they set off along the newly created paths to the base of the wall. Four sectors with a total of 60 routes are now available. The routes, explains Zak, are not simply drilled in, but the old master has climbed each route at least twice and marked where the bolts should then be drilled in. It was important to him that there were beautiful climbing lines - preferably without zigzags. And that they were also suitable for children and beginners. A passion that you can feel when climbing and for which the extreme climber invested a good month's work in total, plus the work of his helpers. That adds up ... Another important argument when renovating and opening up new routes: creating gentle access points, from the hall to the rock: "I like to go climbing in the hall a lot. And that's where I see the new generation of climbers." To enable this new climbing community to make the leap to natural rock, Zak has set the hook spacing similar to that in the hall. "That's important and the future," says the extreme climber.
"Our future is climbing gardens like the Sonnenplatten Scharnitz"
Safety is the top priority for the climbing legend. Which is why he advocates more climbing gardens like the Sonnenplatten Scharnitz. Heinz Zak found a sport in climbing at a young age that did him good and continues to do him good: "Climbing promotes courage and mental strength, and the joy when you have achieved something, when you have overcome yourself, that is unique," explains Zak, his eyes sparkling. Failure is also part of it, he continues, explaining his passion for vertical sports. "I am convinced that climbing keeps me healthy and fit to this day," concludes Zak. In addition, the Scharnitz climbing legend is always happy when others are also passionate about this sport, perhaps because he has kindled the fire for it, as with Margreiter and Seyrling, who are now enthusiastic about climbing and motivate each other.
60 routes for families, beginners and intermediates
Climbing in the Sonnenplatten Scharnitz climbing garden, photo: Olympiaregion Seefeld
It was important to Zak to carry out the renovation himself and to drill new routes that are suitable for beginners and children. The result is interesting routes that are also extremely rewarding in the lower levels of difficulty. What's more, "there is no other climbing garden in Tyrol with so many easy routes," says Zak happily and has dedicated a particularly pretty 4-a climbing route to his wife Geli. If you want to climb it, look for the "Schatzi, 4a" route in the "Löschzwerg Mitte" sector. His friend Peter Janschek, who helped him with the rock work, has also dedicated a route to his wife. It is located to the right of "Schatzi" and is called "Sweety" ... Like Zak's wife, she was also present at the inauguration and was quite astonished - she thought her husband had just been joking.
Chilling out, slacking - just having a good time
In addition to climbing, socializing has always been important to Zak. In the past, he spent almost a whole year on climbing trips with his wife Geli and son Martin. Enjoying and experiencing rock climbing and togetherness with the family - important factors for Zak, who, as he says himself, has been living the life that makes him happy for 30 years. The Sonnenplatten Scharnitz climbing garden doesn't neglect togetherness either: a wide meadow with a chill-out area invites children to play, run around and chill out. There are also slacklines to try out and train on. If it gets a little warm in the sunbathing areas, you can cool off at the stone fountain and refill your water bottle. A toilet house solves the annoying question of where to go (?) when you need to go.
