Every adventurous, travel-loving, sporty person has a personal list of spots, destinations and climbing routes that they absolutely want to do. The only dilemma is that the more you experience, the greater your desire for something new and the list never really gets any shorter. On the contrary, every time you meet and talk to like-minded people, more places are added, so at some point you have to prioritize. That's why we have compiled the "must-do climbing routes" in the Steinberge. These are the best climbing routes for every level, tested and recommended by true connoisseurs.
Panoramic enjoyment on the Steinplatte, photo: Defrancesco
No matter how long your climbing to-do list is, these climbing routes should be at the top of it. With the countless possibilities in the Loferer and Leoganger Steinberge, it's sometimes not easy to make a shortlist. Adi Stocker is someone who knows almost all of the 1,100 climbing routes that have now been opened on the Steinplatte and the Loferer Steinberge. He knows what you should definitely do. But other sporting greats such as the Huberbuam, Chris Sharma or Markus Bendler can also often be seen in the region's climbing gardens. We've collected a few recommendations.
For the connoisseurs
The "Schuasta gangl" on the Steinplatte near Waidring is a must for beginners. This via ferrata in difficulty level C/D is 150 m long and leads from below the mountain station directly to the Steinplatte summit, from where you have a wonderful view over the Pillerseetal valley. An alternative to the cable car is the toll road to the hiking and climbing area with an approx. one and a half hour walk via the Stallenalm and Grünwaldalm to the start.
Climbing route near the Steinplatte, photo: Defrancesco
A dream multi-pitch tour for connoisseurs stands out in the Loferer Steinberge. From the Grieseltal snack station in St. Ulrich am Pillersee, take the forest road and an unmarked path up to the Hirschbadsattel saddle - you can also reach the saddle from the Schmidt-Zabierow-Hütte via the Rotschartl - and then continue eastwards for 20 minutes up a grassy slope to the start of the "Oh Taxbam" route. This is located on the south side of the 2,300 m high Traunspitzl. After six pitches with a maximum difficulty of 5-, the route ends at the exposed summit of the Giftzahn.
For the advanced climbers
One of the best via ferratas in the region for advanced climbers is the "Leoganger Süd". The constantly very steep wall to the summit of the Westliche Mitterspitze (2,160 m) with difficulty levels C to D is no less than 360 m long. It is only 15 minutes from the Passauer Hütte to the start, but depending on the starting point of Leogang, Saalfelden or Weißbach, you will need at least three hours to reach the hut. The descent is via the "Leoganger Nord" via ferrata, which is a little easier but still challenging over vertical wall steps. If you need an additional challenge, then choose the more difficult but impressive variant over the Teufelsjoch in the upper third of the "Leoganger Nord" via ferrata.
Floating freely while climbing in the Steinberge region, photo: Michael Werlberger
The best-known, most frequently climbed route in the Loferer Steinberge and one of the longest alpine sport climbing routes in the Eastern Alps is the "EndeNie". It should be on every good climber's list. The starting point is the Strubtal valley between Waidring and Lofer or the Schmidt-Zabierow hut. The route is located on the north-north face of the 2,413 m high Breithorn and requires no less than 38 pitches at 1,500 m. You definitely need to be able to climb at the 6th level of difficulty.
For the experts
The Steinberge are also known to be very popular with professionals. If you are looking for the ultimate challenge, you will also find it here - especially on the walls of the 150 m high Steinplatte. There are around 100 multi-pitch routes from the 4th to 10th level of difficulty. A prime example is the "Ironmouse" with seven pitches up to 6c in the central area of the 7 km long Steinplatte. You can reach it via the trail from the Steinplatte mountain station or via the toll road and the Stallenalm and Grünwaldalm.
Climbing on the Steinplatte, photo: Jörg Mitter
In the Loferer Steinberge, it is the "Gelee Royale" on the south-west pillars of the Gr. Ochsenhorn that demands a great deal of skill. On 18 pitches up to difficulty level 7a/7b, you not only need good technique, but also stamina. The ideal starting point is once again the Schmidt-Zabierow-Hütte, from where it is about an hour to the start.
