The weekend is approaching and we're not in the mood for the climbing garden monotony of the past few days. This time it's going to be a multi-pitch tour. To make the climbing day really exciting, we like to go to areas we haven't been to before. So we come across Paznaun - Ischgl. Known and loved for bouldering in the Silvapark above Galtür, there are also some multi-pitch tours in the best granite around the Jamtalhütte.
The Gamshorn climbing garden in Paznaun
As the weather forecast predicts unstable weather for the afternoon, we don't opt for the climbing tours with access via the glacier, but instead head for theGamshorn multi-pitch climbing garden, about 1 hour above the Jamtalhütte. According to the topo, there are many different tours that can be combined with each other and as soon as the weather changes, we can safely break off and head back to the hut.
The journey to Paznaun
After a comfortable journey by car to Galtür at the end of the Paznaun valley, we start at the small parking lot at the Mentenalpe above the village.
The approach
The approach to the Jamtalhütte in Paznaun
The ascent to the Jamtalhütte is very scenic and the gentle slope of the valley makes it long but not strenuous. The ascent of around 600 meters can be completed in 2.5 to 3 hours. Immediately after the parking lot, you can decide whether to take the path on the left-hand side of the valley (slightly shorter) or stay on the asphalt path. This would also be perfect for cycling or e-biking to the hut.
Shortly before the hut, we are surprised to see a single cable car gondola. This is not a ski area, but the Jamtal is a training base for the Tyrolean Mountain Rescue Service, which means that every conceivable emergency situation is practised here, including rescue from a gondola. Once we arrive at the hut, we take a short breather and continue on towards Gamshorn.
Everything is well signposted
The wall to the left above the hut is signposted and easy to recognize. However, the path now becomes steeper and the approx. 1.5 hours from the hut drag on a little with the heavy climbing rucksack. The higher we get, the slower we go, but the views get better. We have practically reached the highest floor in Tyrol and are surrounded by glaciers that are still impressive.
Short picnic break
Once we reach the rock, the beautiful, flat mountain meadow below the entrance is just begging for a picnic. Well fortified, we finally get to the rock. The weather has deteriorated somewhat, but should still hold.
Climbing multi-pitch routes at last
The tours in the Gamshorn climbing garden in Paznaun are partially signposted
We opt for the guideline, some of the climbs are marked, but the bolts make them easy to recognize. The granite is golden yellow and still warm. The protection with bolts is quite good, but a few wedges and friends wouldn't hurt. Also perfect for practicing how to use them. The 5 or so pitches are interrupted in the middle by a band of grass and the views down to the hut or the glaciers are unique. The lengths virtually fly by under our fingers.
A deep view of the Jamtalhütte in Paznaun
The descent
Once at the top, we simply cross over to the hiking trail and descend via this past the climbing garden. Unfortunately, the worsening weather spoils our second tour and so we hurry down to the Jamtalhütte in around half an hour.
How we would love to just stay here, spend the night and do one of the other tours above the glaciers the next day. But unfortunately we have to return to the valley. In the meantime it has started to rain, but with our unique experience in our pockets, we set off on our descent satisfied.
