The "Gailwand" climbing garden in the Kaunertal valley below the Gepatsch reservoir offers fantastic lines in the finest granite: from cracks to intersections to wall climbing. And because you're already on the Kaunertal Glacier Road anyway, you can get a taste of Hollywood air, look out for ibexes and pay a visit to "Maria in the Snow".
Gailwand in the Kaunertal: climbing in the realm of the ibex
The drive in the Kaunertal towards the climbing garden alone is as impressive as it is tranquil. On the wide valley floor at the beginning of the Kaunertal, pretty farms and barns nestle harmoniously into the landscape. You can slip through the largest municipality of Feichten in no time at all. After that, a few hamlets are strung together like pearls on a string, only to soon give way to a lovely, rugged landscape. After the toll booth, the glacier road begins to wind its way up towards the eternal ice. To the left and right, mighty mountain peaks tower into the sky like tin soldiers, while the imposing dam wall of the Gepatsch reservoir slowly comes into view in front of us. If you are practically standing in front of the dam, you have also reached the starting point for the Gailwand in the form of a small parking bay on the road. On the right is the dam and a house, on the left a sign indicating that this is the way to the climbing garden.
Signpost to the Gailwand climbing garden
The approach through a mountain forest is short, a little steep, but quite magical. The latter perhaps requires a little imagination, for example when the soft ground gives way like a mat and "mouths" stretch out with their black holes and gnarled roots turn walking into an obstacle course. Too feminine? Then simply ignore it. But what you definitely can't ignore is the wonderful scent in the air: Wood, moss and mushrooms provide a rich aroma that hangs heavy in the air. The area around the Gailwand has numerous special flora and fauna features that are worth protecting. Accordingly, care must be taken when approaching and descending, i.e. follow the well-marked path and do not take shortcuts. In addition, the Gailwand is closed between October 15 and May 1, when this beautiful forest once again belongs to the ibex and all other wildlife.
Incidentally, the forest area around the Gailwand is such a popular area for ibex and goats that it even has its own entry on the glacier road information map (station number 8 "Steinbock-Hang": ibex graze here in spring and fall).
Mountain forest idyll on the way to the Gailwand climbing garden in the Kaunertal valley
Back to climbing: After a good 15 minutes of varied climbing, you find yourself in front of the imposing Gailwand with some extremely interesting lines. Routes such as "Joshua Tree Classic" and "Egon's Yosemite" clearly show what is on offer here: the finest granite crack climbing. If you have just come from sinter climbing in limestone, you may have a certain adjustment phase - once this has been successfully completed, you can fully enjoy the climbing up here at an altitude of 1800 meters. Above all, the view of the milky-green shimmering reservoir from the deflector rewards all climbing efforts.
The "Joshua Tree Classic" route (6a+) in the Gailwand climbing garden in the Kaunertal valley
At the base of the wall, the plants tower high up like a jungle and there are buzzing, fluttering and whirring insects everywhere. A good mosquito spray is essential in summer. You should also keep an eye on the weather forecast, as the rock stays wet for a long time after rain - which meant that some interesting routes were not feasible during our visit, as it was dripping too much from the wall. Tip: If you live further away and are planning a climbing visit to the Gailwand, you should start checking the weather online a week in advance.
The rock bar of the Gailwand climbing garden
If the weather is right, you will experience an extremely fulfilling day of climbing up here that cries out to be repeated. Not least because, in addition to the beautiful climbing lines, the route names such as "Just Married", "Fucking Moskito" or "Kriminal Tango" are a must-climb. After climbing, you should definitely drive a little further towards the glacier on the toll road. The 6 kilometers along the Gepatsch reservoir alone are worth the drive. The milky green water, the glistening snow and the eternal ice are a feast for the eyes. Numerous waterfalls invite you to marvel at the water as it sometimes trickles and sometimes roars its way down.
The Gepatsch reservoir, photo: Tirol Werbung, Tobias Madoern
The Gailwand in the Kaunertal at a glance
Great granite area at an altitude of 1800 meters. The routes offer intersecting, crack and wall climbing. Wet for a long time after periods of rain. ATTENTION: Climbing is prohibited between October 15 and May 1! Wildlife rest zone!
A total of 30 routes in grades 5c+ to 8a+ await you. Orientation: West. The Gailwand is only of limited interest to beginners (few really easy routes). Families with small children won't get their money's worth here either, as the mountain forest is quite sloping and uneven right up to the rock face.
A children's paradise: the Fernergries in the Kaunertal
If you are traveling with kids or climbing newbies who like to scramble up the rock face, leave the Gailwand to the left and simply take the glacier road a little further up to the "Fernergries" climbing garden. The rock formed by the glacier ice is located right next to the toll road, but on a wide, flat meadow. The cars and motorcyclists quickly fade away, not least because the water from the Gepatschferner thunders down towards the lake.
Interesting facts along the way: very close to the the family climbing garden is the butterfly place with benches for resting and and have a snack. A survey point also shows the glacier level from 1857. (Stations 16 and 17 on the Kaunertal Glacier Road info map)
Children let off steam in the Fernergries climbing garden
Monument protection at 1900 meters above sea level: the Gepatschhaus
Once you have left the impressive reservoir behind you up the steep hairpin bends to the next alpine pasture. Once here you should plan a rest stop at the Gepatschhaus. Why? Because the Alpine Club hut is only a few minutes' walk from the road and the view back to the reservoir lake is stunning, as is the hut and the wooden chapel "Maria im Snow".
The Gepatschhaus was built in 1873 as the first German Alpine Club hut in Austria. The wooden chapel was added in 1895. Both the hut and the chapel have been listed buildings since 2013. A look inside the beautiful hut parlor is worth a look, as is a stop on the terrace and a visit to the chapel. chapel.
In the footsteps of Bond, James Bond
Incidentally, Daniel Craig had a hot pursuit with the film villains for the 24th Bond film "Spectre" practically in the parking lot area of the Gepatschhaus. It's nothing to see, but for real Bond fans or Craig aficionados it might be almost like sacred ground.
All in all, you should plan more than one day for the Kaunertal - both the climbs and the excursions, stops and sights along the way on the glacier road are extremely interesting and varied.
If you want to save yourself the toll of 24 euros (car or minibus up to max. 5 people), you can conquer the road by e-bike, or of course, by fair means, by classic bike (without electric motor) or even on foot. But then it is a little more time-consuming - but as a long weekend it is a beautiful and environmentally friendly option.
Accommodation options in the Kaunertal
If you want to stay at the top, you should stay in the Gepatschhaus. The twin rooms in particular are a feast for the eyes and evoke nostalgic memories. If you want a bit of a treat with a visit to a café etc., look for suitable accommodation in Feichten.
