The interview was conducted by Simon Schöpf.
Mike, introduce yourself briefly. Who are you?
Mike Gabl: Very formal: Michael Gabl, born in 1959, lives in Tarrenz, Tyrol. But everyone actually says Mike. I'm a teacher, mountain and ski guide and qualified ski instructor. I trained the Imst-Tirol-West climbing team for 15 years and many climbing stars have emerged from this period. I have been the technical director of the Climbers Paradise Tirol association since 2006. But most importantly: I have been an active mountaineer and climber for 45 years. Sounds long, but it is!
Did you come up with the idea of Climbers Paradise? How did it come about? What does the brand stand for now?
Mike Gabl: It actually started in Ötztal, the tourism association gave the order to turn the valley into an internationally renowned climbing destination, Peter Thaler and I were the driving forces behind it. Shortly afterwards, other associations, such as Imstor Mieming, followed with similar concerns. From then on, it made sense to bring all climbing gardens together under one central platform, which we called "Climbers Paradise". Which of course corresponds to reality. Since then, more and more areas have been added.
Why do we even need a "Climbers Paradise"? People used to just "go climbing" ...
Mike Gabl : Climbing has established itself as a popular and lifestyle sport in recent years. At the beginning of the sport climbing era, the protagonists were usually also mountaineers, so they had alpine experience and were able to deal with large, experienced hook distances. Today, the sport is learned in the safe environment of a climbing hall. The "indoor kids" got to know climbing under completely different conditions and therefore also need indoor-like conditions when climbing outdoors. At least as far as safety standards are concerned.
When we started the "Climbers Paradise" project, many of the climbing gardens were in a desolate state. That's why we removed old bolts and drilled new holes into many routes to improve safety. In order to channel future streams of visitors, we also installed infrastructure such as access routes, information boards, toilets and the like. And just as important, but not visible: to prevent problems, numerous discussions were held with landowners, hunters, forestry and environmental authorities. In some cases, contracts were also concluded and lease payments agreed. In times when only a few individualists climbed, none of this was necessary. But times have changed!
Safety and quality have top priority at Climbers Paradise. How do you achieve these standards across the whole of Tyrol?
Mike Gabl: Right at the beginning of CP, we started to organize coordination courses for our route setters. This ensured uniform safety standards for all regions.
Climbers Paradise should be interesting for as many people as possible, for families as well as for hard movers. How can you ensure a wide range of options?
Mike Gabl: The diversity of the Tyrolean climbing gardens means that there is a wealth of variation, so to speak, by nature. However, depending on the objective (family climbing garden, beginners' climbing garden, hardcore climbing garden, etc.), different criteria apply in terms of bolt spacing, terrain in front of the wall, access routes and safety from alpine dangers.
And where does the material actually come from? How much does a stainless steel bolt cost and who pays for it?
Mike Gabl:The quality standards of the material are based on the applicable norms. Purchasing is carried out by the tourism associations, municipalities and alpine clubs and is then distributed to the route setters. This ensures that only suitable and tested material is used. In the past, completely unsuitable materials from DIY stores were often used for cost reasons. A modern, standardized bolt currently costs around € 3.50, a redirection with chain and carabiner around € 25. Including working time, we estimate around € 170 for a 25 m route.
Climbing is becoming increasingly popular and more and more people are taking to the rocks. What impact is this having on nature? Will there also be "overcrowding" of climbing gardens, will we soon have to put up turnstiles?
Mike Gabl: Climbing is booming, absolutely, and there is no end in sight to this trend. On the other hand, numerous new areas with tens of thousands of new routes are being created worldwide every year. This spreads the rush geographically. There are also so-called "secret spots" everywhere that only insiders know about. However, there is a lot going on in the local climbing gardens on nice weekends. This particularly affects areas with many easy routes. That's why we at Climbers Paradise have specifically promoted the bolting of easy routes. Good planning is recommended here.
Can I also drill a route in Climbers Paradise? What requirements do the route setters need?
Mike Gabl: To drill for us, you must have completed a coordination course and preferably have climbing training (mountain guide, sport climbing instructor). Experience with drilling is also required.
Another look into the future: What will Climbers Paradise look like in ten years? What do you wish for?
Mike Gabl:The best thing about my job is that climbing has the potential to enrich the lives of many people. The challenge of a route in terms of overcoming the fear of falling, the demands on physical requirements such as strength, stamina, flexibility, but also conscious nutrition, always prompts us to leave our comfort zones and gain new experiences. If you climb, you learn. We usually move through indescribably beautiful landscapes. It's a pleasure when we look at them consciously and attentively and don't just have the difficulty levels in our heads. Last but not least, the interaction with our climbing partners also gives us many wonderful and unforgettable experiences together.
So I'm not giving up hope that the "Gallic villages" such as Zillertal and Lechtal will also join Climbers Paradise and that we can continue to expand and improve the quality of the climbing offer.
Thank you, Mike, for the interview!
Admission criteria for new areas/routes
In order to be accepted on the Climbers Paradise platform, routes and areas must meet strict criteria. In addition, the hazard reporting office ensures that any deficiencies are rectified as quickly as possible. Mike Gabl: "If a piton is missing somewhere in an area, for example, you can report it via the homepage and I'll take care of it. A short time after the report, everything is usually fixed again."
