Much has already been written about the climbing areas around Innsbruck. The Tyrolean capital, heart of the Alps, heart of Climbers Paradise, that much is known. Time to say a few words about the local subspecies of Inntal climbers - the homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis.
Early in the morning on a Tuesday morning in March or April - curtain up, eyes out, mouth open. Cloudless! The last wafts of mist are still hanging on the Nordkette mountain range, the trees have already put on their white coats again from the Hungerburg, and there were a few centimetres of fresh snow during the night. And now the typical Innsbruck dilemma: to strap on the powder slats or put on the chalk bag - which is it?
Innsbruck's spring is filled with such luxury problems: The sky is often bright blue, the days are longer again, there's still plenty of snow at the top and it's already nice and warm in the Inn Valley. And the nerve cells of homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis begin their confused mind game. Is the snow still fluffy at the top? Will the grip on the rock still be good? Does anyone have time for a short session in the Jungle Book on Tuesday morning?
The priorities in Innsbruck
But someone always has time. What actually sets Innsbruck apart is not its central location in the middle of Europe, it's the delightfully large (gene) pool of over-motivated climbers and skiers who always have time. Innsbruck as a student city, which means that the lectures won't be that important. Innsbruck as a city of free spirits, which means that the project submission can wait until tomorrow. It's all a question of priorities, and the priorities in Innsbruck are: Rock. Powder. Firn ski tour.
Meeting point at the Martinswand near Innsbruck, photo: Simon Schöpf
The typical homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis will be smearing a honey roll with one hand at breakfast and flicking through half his phone book with the other, with ever-increasing nervousness. "Dschungl today?!", "Shortly Seegrubm auffi shredden?!", usually accompanied by a few exaggerated sun emoticons. Bite bite, beep beep. The long minutes of anxious waiting begin - does anyone have time, or is everyone already on their way? Slept too long again today? Or do the people even have to work today, hand in another master's thesis or take a walk along the Inn with the whining children? Please! Don't!
Beep beep beep, "I'll pick you up at 9:15, I've got a rope, you exes", comes back at some point. Phew. Take a deep breath. Day saved. Gobble down a roll, drink coffee, fill the thermos flask, pack the down. Homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis goes on the hunt, it's going to be another good spring day in Innsbruck.
Creative approach to the Hötting quarry near Innsbruck, photo: Simon Schöpf
3 tips for climbing in spring: where the sun kisses the rock
And where is our homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis off to today? A few tips for the first warm days on the rock:
1st Martinswand / Jungle Book
In the Jungle Book on the Martinswand near Innsbruck, photo: Simon Schöpf
The classic, of course. But the Jungle Book is simply an unusually versatile climbing garden with lots of great sectors. It's easy to reach from Innsbruck, hardly any approach, perfect for days when your friends still have to go to lectures in the morning or don't get off work until 2 pm(flexitime!). The main sector is dominated by tough ledge climbs from 7a upwards, to the right of it you will also find rewarding routes in the 6th and 7th degree of difficulty in the Plattenschleicher sector, but never for free. You have to work your way up the jungle. Sunny all day, on cloudless days in March you can climb in a T-shirt from around 10 am to 4:30 pm.
2nd Hötting quarry
The Hötting quarry near Innsbruck, photo: Simon Schöpf
Another great classic above Innsbruck, easily accessible by bus (line J) and bike in an environmentally friendly way: the Hötting quarry. In spring, the sun shines from midday, with some easy routes on the right outside even earlier. Also perfect as an "emergency solution" for homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis when no one really has time. The Boulderquergang is fabulously smeared, but before you stay at home and do nothing, you can always pick up a pump.
3rd Martinswand / Grottenwand
The Martinswand near Innsbruck, at the Grottenwandl, photo: Simon Schöpf
A small, fine sector with many easier routes high above the Inn Valley: the Grottenwand. 15 minutes approach, all-round sunny location. For the hard movers there are also some worthwhile spring projects in the direction of the grotto (e.g. Renaissance, 7c+).
Disclaimer:
The author himself is a homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis and therefore knows all about the inner turmoil that strikes when the conditions are perfect. There is simply too much to do in this city!
