In conversation with up-and-coming talent Louis Gundolf

Louis Gundolf is one of the most promising young Tyrolean athletes. Born in Pitztal, he has already achieved several successes, including 6th place at the World Youth Championships. He spoke to us about his everyday life, his personal challenges and his climbing goals.

How long have you been climbing competitively?

Louis Gundolf: This is actually the start of my 4th season, but as I wasn't able to take part in every competition in my first two years due to injury, you could say that I've been fully involved for two years now and have taken part in every competition.

Young athlete Louis Gundolf climbing

What are your greatest successes?

Louis Gundolf: Over the last few years, I've been able to record some good results. However, I am particularly proud of my place in the final at the World Youth Championships in Innsbruck. I was in 3rd place and had the best chance of a good result, but unfortunately I made a stupid mistake early on and slipped back to 6th place. Despite everything, it was a great experience and it's very special to be able to climb in front of such a big home crowd.

I was also able to win the Austrian Combined Champion in my age group. There were also a few national victories in the A-Cups, which I will remember for a long time.

Do you have a specific goal in mind or are you more the spontaneous type who just sees how it goes?

Louis Gundolf: Yes, I have specific goals in mind, but most people do anyway. That wouldn't even be possible these days, as you have to decide which competitions to train for and which ones you want to take with you. One of these goals is to reach the podium at the European Championships in Imst this year.

You also do a lot of rock climbing. Is it more important for you to perform on plastic or are rock projects just as important?

Louis Gundolf: During the competition season, it's very important for me to maintain consistent training times, as I personally mainly get my fitness from the gym. However, as I come from the Pitztal and it's a tradition for me to tick off difficult routes in the fall, it's just as important for me to get away from the gym in between times and get as much motivation as possible on the rock.

Louis Gundolf also enjoys climbing on rock

Keyword multipitch. Interesting for the future or rather climbing gardens and competitions?

Louis Gundolf: That's a very interesting keyword. I got around the multi-pitch routes in the Dolomites early on, I think my first time was when I was 11 or 12. This fall I even went to the Martinswand once and was able to climb "Das Dach" (8a) onsight. Last fall, I was also able to drill a multipitch route with my buddy Jonathan Lechner at our home in the Pitztal. The route is nine pitches long and, according to my initial assessment, hopefully possible. We lead-climbed the project and it took us four days of hard work. But it's also fun.

Regarding your question, future climbing garden or competition: My heart beats for climbing in general ... as long as I enjoy competition climbing so much and still have enough time to be out on the rock to balance it out, I would find it difficult to choose one side or the other.

Where do you see yourself in five years' time? Are there any particular, perhaps alpine, goals you are pursuing?

Louis Gundolf: I hope that I will have passed my A-levels in five years' time and be able to study my dream subject. I also hope to be successful in competitive sports and perhaps have already climbed one or two difficult routes on the rock.

What does your day-to-day training look like? What would you like to do to make your training even more effective?

Louis Gundolf: Well, I train five to six times a week and, depending on the training phase, 20-30 hours a week. As I go to the competitive sports BORG in Innsbruck, it's possible for me to have morning and afternoon training twice a week, with three hours of school in between. I also get up at 7 a.m. every Saturday, so I can do a "double training session" there too. I don't really have a wish to make my training even more efficient, except perhaps that I want to become a better student and that I don't always have so much stress with studying alongside training.

Louis Gundolf bouldering on the rock

You've just had a pretty radical change of coach in Innsbruck. How are you coping with the new situation?

Louis Gundolf: For me personally, nothing has changed in training, as I've been training with my coach Fabian Leu, who is currently responsible for the Tyrolean youth and for me. So far, I get on very well with the new coaches of the adult squad and I also believe that they are doing a good job.

Keyword Olympics. In principle a topic for you?

Louis Gundolf: In general, yes, it's a big challenge to be at the top in all three disciplines, but we'll see. Of course it would be an honor to compete for Austria at the Olympic Games. I think the idea of making climbing an Olympic sport is a very good one, but medals should also be awarded in the individual disciplines and not just in combined climbing, as this type of climbing is rather uninteresting for the public and it's difficult to see who won in the end.

Do you still have any specific goals in mind that you want to achieve in rock climbing?

Louis Gundolf: Yes, I have enough time in the fall after the Youth World Championships to pursue my goals in rock. One of them would be to tick off my multipitch project in the Pitztal. But I would also like to clear a few difficult routes in the Götterwandl or Ötztal before winter arrives. A one- to two-week trip to the Dolomites with my colleague Joni is also on the agenda - we'll see what turns up.