In addition to ski touring and sport climbing, ice climbing has also been a shared hobby for some time now for friends Maximilian Gschaider (31) and Jakob Mitterhuber (31), who come from Berchtesgaden and Salzburg but live in Tyrol. They had their first ice climbing experiences together and have been regularly seen on the frozen waterfalls of Tyrol ever since. We met them for an interview.
Jakob Mitterhuber in the Stubai Valley 4th dwarf. Photo: Tjitte Stolk
Climbers Paradise: How and when did you discover ice climbing?
Jakob: "My interest in ice climbing grew mainly through alpine ski tours, which often involve overcoming icy obstacles. Handling the tools when ice climbing also makes you safer for alpine ski tours (as well as being fun, of course). At the beginning, we climbed in beginner-friendly areas, where the most difficult tour was around grade 3. The belays were already drilled here too.
Max: "That was about three years ago at the Kühtaibacherl icefall. We climbed the ice together for the first time here. We relied on our alpine knowledge and experience and just went for it. However, we were already a well-coordinated team from climbing and touring together, which of course helped."
INFO: You can find another beginner-friendly spot in Sellrain here!
Jakob Mitterhuber turning an ice screw in the Stubaital 4th dwarf. Photo: Tjitte Stolk
How did your last season go?
Jakob: "Last year I already had a few ice climbing days, but we often had to look for "good ice". For example, I was with Max at Klaushoffall in the Zillertal and at the Rumpelstiltskin icefall in Sellrain."
Max: "Rumpelstiltskin (Sellrain) was really fun. At this spot, you have to belay yourself and also get to grips with the ice tools on the rock, as it's a mixed route (ice and rock sections). You can learn a lot here because you also have to find the right places for reliable belays yourself.
In the Zillergrund at Klaushoffall, the conditions were good, but there was another rope team ahead of us and there was repeated icefall, which we were able to avoid. Towards the end, the tour became quite steep and we didn't choose the best route. All in all, it was an adventurous and quite strenuous tour."
The Klaushoffall in the Zillertal.
Which ice climbing spot onCLIMBERS PARADISElisted on climbers paradise do you particularly like?
Jakob: "I recently visited the Renkfälle in the Kaunertal for the first time. Personally, I really like the spot because there are lots of steep and, above all, long climbs. The difficulty levels start at grade WI 5, so it's a rather challenging spot (at least for me). The icefalls are at 2000 m and are around 180 m long."
Max: "For me, the Pitztal is a classic ice climbing area, which I like. There are so many different spots there and the conditions are often good."
Max Gschaider at the Klockelfall in the Pitztal. Photo: Lukas Jostl
At what level of difficulty do you feel comfortable? What is the maximum grade you climb?
Max: "You should only use the difficulty levels given as a guide, as the level of climbing required depends very much on the current ice conditions. Sometimes, for example, an indicated grade 3 is much more difficult than you would expect from the guide value. In general, I prefer to climb at grade 4, I reach my limits at grade 5."
Jakob: "Good question, as Max already said, it varies from spot to spot depending on the natural conditions. For me, the most challenging grade on ice is around WI 5. Ultimately, you have to assess your own line because you have a lot of leeway and there are often different ways to climb a route."
Max Gschaider at the Klockelfall in the Pitztal. Photo: Lukas Jostl
Have there been any dangerous situations this season?
Max: "Not directly, but in Valsertal we had to turn around on the way to the icefall because large parts of the icefall had already collapsed due to temperature changes. We were lucky, because that could have happened to us too."
Jakob: "I was there again a few weeks later and had a mega day. When ice climbing (whether you're climbing or belaying), you should always make sure you're very well positioned, as it can easily happen that parts of the ice above the rope team come loose and fall down. You have to be aware of dangers that are not very obvious. Fortunately, we haven't had any really tricky situations so far this season."
Jakob Mitterhuber in the Stubaital 4th dwarf. Photo: Tjitte Stolk
Do you have any spot tips for the beginning or end of winter?
Max: "At the beginning of winter, I can recommend the ice park in the Pitztal at Taschachschlucht. It's an artificially irrigated spot with very low ambient temperatures, even at the beginning of the cold season.
In Ötztal (Oberried) there is even the opportunity to climb at night in an artificially irrigated icefall illuminated by floodlights. Perfect for the start of winter, as it gets dark early.
Jakob: "If the temperatures rise towards the end of the season, you should look for higher and therefore icier spots (for example Pitztal and Kaunertal)."
