Ice climbing in the Pinnistal: "Iceman" project

The Pinnistal is known for its difficult routes for ice climbing and mixed climbing. Christian Piccolruaz, known as "Picco", managed the redpoint ascent of his mixed climbing project "Iceman" on January 30th. He talks about his experience at Climbers Paradise:

Free-hanging icicles for ice climbing in the Pinnistal valley

I recently discovered two free-hanging icicles with good rock all around in the Pinnistal to the right of the Rumpelkammer. As I wanted to realize a perfect route for ice climbing at a high level of difficulty on my own, drilling in from above was my first choice. An ideal, well-considered choice of line, cleanly tapped bolt placements and ideal bolt spacing are advantages when bolting from above. Of course, you can also do it from below, but you need a patient belayer with more time and the risk of getting stuck is greater.

Ice climbing in four pitches with high degrees of difficulty

Four short, varied pitches, each with ice contact, in the 6th to 8th mixed grade came out. Wafer-thin glazes, a tricky traverse, a steep crux and a cool exit length provide ice climbing action from bottom to top. No bolts need to be placed in the free-hanging exit spigot, as I placed a bolt every 4m to 5m in the rock on the right.

The facts about the new ice climbing route

First redpoint ascent with Peter Gasser and photographer Stefan Voitl Second redpoint ascent with Matthias Wurzer on 03.02. 2018 Four fairly short pitches with difficulty grades M7+, M7, M8 and M6 WI5 The material required

10 quickdraws and 3 bolts are all you need. At the very top of the exit, an Abalakov ice hourglass must be drilled for abseiling. All other bolt stands and intermediate bolts are made of Austrialpin stainless steel material.

Thanks to the sponsor and thanks to the professional photographer for the great pictures!