Ice climbing for beginners in Ötztal

Ice climbing through frozen waterfalls is becoming increasingly popular. Reason enough for Alois Pumhösel to give it a try. He reports on his experiences at Climbers Paradise:

We set off to Ötztal, where a dedicated mountain guide community is offering beginners and advanced climbers alike more and more opportunities for ice climbing. "A bit of shitting is part of it," says Burney as he sets off from the belay station. On the third pitch, which concludes our tour, the ice no longer leans against the mountain as comfortably as on the previous pitches. Here we have to climb a few meters almost vertically through the waterfall. Quite a challenge when you stand in front of the ice walls with crampons and ice tools for the first time.

Ice climbing in Ötztal: perfect for beginners

We are out and about with Erwin Holzknecht, mountain guide from Alpintreff in Längenfeld in Ötztal. There are around 30 climbable waterfalls in the immediate vicinity of the village alone. Erwin chooses one for us that is only a few steps away from Längenfeld and is particularly suitable for ice climbing for beginners: 120 meters high, stands available, a hiking trail for the descent. The very wide and icy access area is prepared for toprope climbing. If we keep to the left here, the climbing remains easier, "WI3" on the difficulty scale for ice climbing, i.e. less than 80 degrees steepness, explains the mountain guide. If we keep to the right, it gets much steeper at WI4. "Great for practising," says the Längenfeld guide. Good for beginners, but not to be underestimated.

More and more ice climbers in Ötztal

There was a lot of precipitation last fall, which means excellent conditions for ice climbing this winter, explains Erwin. The Ötztal mountain guide clearly notices from the number of his customers that the sport is becoming more popular: Germans, Dutch, French and Swiss climb the icefalls with him. Not only beginners, but also regular customers who keep coming back for something more difficult. 60 waterfalls are currently climbable in the entire Ötztal, many away from any avalanche danger. The number of topos is constantly growing. For next year, the Längenfeld team is also planning its own artificial ice parkour on a rock climbing wall.

Step in, hit it, again and again

After a brief explanation about different types of ice and the correct use of crampons and ice tools, we get started: Erwin lets us try out a toprope rope first. Step in, hammer in, again and again. Stand well, work slowly forward. Slowly you get a feel for whether the tip of the ice tool will hold in the ice or whether you have to "keep chopping". Your thighs are burning. This is miles away from the climbing we know from rock and indoor climbing, even if some of the movements feel familiar.

Key section on the last few meters

After a few attempts, it was clear: this is extremely strenuous, but still goes surprisingly well. So we try the three pitches all the way up. Burney - as a more experienced rock climber - takes on the steeper first pitches, I collect the ice screws behind him. Erwin assists with the belays where necessary.