Home climbing - Chapter 5: a climbing road trip through the Ötztal

The Ötztal offers much more than the winter sports centers of Sölden and Ober-/Hochgurgl. In the last chapter of our "Climbing at home" series, we show you what the Ötztal has to offer in terms of imposing glacier landscapes, perfect climbing rocks, surprisingly warm lakes and, last but not least, culture and history.

With a length of 65 kilometers, the Ötztal is the longest side valley of the Inn Valley and the longest transverse valley in the Eastern Alps. It can also be divided into five stages, which differ significantly from one another in terms of both climate and landscape: While fruit, chestnuts and even wine thrive in the mild, low-rainfall climate at the start of the valley near Sautens, Obergurgl at 1,907 meters above sea level has a harsh, high alpine climate.

In addition, 67 glaciers can be found in the Ötztal Nature Park, which means that 18 percent of the Nature Park's total area is covered by eternal ice. And to complete the series of numbers, in addition to 250 three-thousand-meter peaks, there are also a good 600 climbing routes in Ötztal. These include 19 climbing gardens and numerous multi-pitch areas - a real Eldorado that offers not only climbing fun but also numerous opportunities for mountain and sheep history, hut culture and fun sports. Let the summer games begin in Ötztal ...

Glacier imprint, force of nature and fun on the pass

The Ötztal owes its appearance, including the striking steep steps where the road winds its way up over narrow hairpin bends, to nature: On the one hand, mighty glacier tongues formed the narrow trough valley, on the other hand, landslides gave the inner Alpine dry valley its terraced landscape steps. The spectacular highlight: the Timmelsjoch High Alpine Road, which connects Tyrol with South Tyrol and climbs up to 2,474 meters in many hairpin bends. It took just 17 months to build the road on the Austrian side. The ride on one of the most beautiful high Alpine roads is a MUST for racing cyclists and motorcycle fans alike.

Interesting fact: Professional racing cyclist Emanuel Buchmann set a new record in the "Everest Challenge" on May 28, 2020: In 7 hours and 28 minutes, he cycled up the Timmelsjoch High Alpine Road so many times that he reached the summit height of Mount Everest: 8,848 meters. The ride was for a good cause - a total of 14,000 euros was raised in donations.

Climbing road trip through the Ötztal - Stop 1: Haiming

But let's get back to the basics. You have three weeks of summer vacation and no plan where to go? We recommend a climbing road trip through the Ötztal! Experience home and discover lots of new things ... And as a starting point we define Haiming, which is located on the Inn river, but only a stone's throw away marks the extended gateway to Ötztal.

The climbing destination is the mighty, several hundred meter high Geierwand. Fantastic multi-pitch routes, but also a via ferrata and a climbing garden salute as a "welcoming committee" for the Ötztal trip. The routes are all perfectly bolted, the rock (limestone) is grippy and rough. Particularly beautiful: the "Nebraska" route with a whopping eleven pitches. If you want it a little easier, for warm climbing so to speak, you should climb the "Inntal Sinfonie " (max. 6a+) - a dream tour including panoramic views. And because the choice and the hunger for climbing are great, simply stay one or two nights in Haiming.

The whitewater tip

The small village on the Inn is Tyrol's center for guided rafting and canyoning tours. The first providers of whitewater fun set up shop here in the early 1990s and have remained here ever since. Participation is uncomplicated, simply go to one of the centers, sign up for a trip and off you go through the wild waters of the Inn or the Ötztal Ache. Incidentally, this is a welcome refreshment after a long, energy-sapping multi-pitch tour on the Geierwand - after all, the wall faces south ...

Stop 2: Oetz and Sautens

Leaving Haiming, the route leads through southern-looking pine forests, past Ötztal train station into Ötztal. The next climbing spots are not far away: the rock type changes with the Oetz and Rammelsteinclimbing gardens in Sautens. While we still had limestone under our fingers on the Geierwand, from now on we have to find our way up in granite.

If you like, you can climb in the south-facing Oetz climbing garden in the morning and put your feet in the cool water in the afternoon. The north-facing Rammelstein climbing garden in Sautens promises all-day climbing on cracks, dents and ledges. Both areas offer routes for beginners as well as ambitious climbing fans.

The adventure tip

Area 47 is the perfect playground for water rats and height junkies: wakeboarding, water slides, high ropes course climbs at dizzying heights. Here, the hearts of fun enthusiasts beat faster - regardless of age.

The pleasure tip

The landscape in the front Ötztal with its many fruit trees is ideal for easy hikes or pleasure bike tours. If you don't want it to be quite as busy as Area 47, but still enjoy swimming, you can cycle from Oetz to Lake Piburger See, for example. Don't forget a snack or take some money for a sundowner by the lake. Very romantic.

Stop 3: Tumpen/Engelswand

A classic and worth a stop for this reason alone: the Engelswand is very popular with many families due to its location, easy access and the wide meadow at the foot of the wall - and rightly so. Kids and adults alike can spend a chilled day climbing here - alternating between climbing, resting, watching cows rest, watching cows graze, eating something themselves and then climbing again - and then, bang, the sun is already slanting and the evening begins.

Stop 4: Umhausen/Stuibenfall

How about a rest day? Spend it marveling at the highest waterfall in Tirol, for example. The Stuibenfall near Umhausen plunges over two steep steps at 159 meters into the depths with a great roar. Especially on hot summer days, it is a delicious refreshment on the skin.

If you don't want to miss out on rock contact altogether, there is an interesting via ferrata here. The 450-metre climb leads upwards to the left and right of the waterfall. Quite impressive: the crossing of the waterfall via wire ropes. The via ferrata is suitable for children aged 10 and over. Afterwards, an ice cream or two and the perfect climbing day is complete.

Stop 5: Längenfeld/Nösslach

Well rested and with renewed energy, the fifth stop is a multi-pitch climb to Nösslach. The wall faces west/southwest, so it's worth getting up early, also to be the first rope team to start the climbing day in peace and quiet. How about the "Träumerei" or the "Sonnenblume" route, for example?

The beautiful lines in the gneiss require precise footwork and a balanced center of gravity. You climb uphill meter by meter and get more into the flow with every climb - what a dream. And because it's so beautiful, you go on another tour, and another, or do a few baseclimbs in the climbing garden ... Life can be so simple and wonderful, especially as a road trip on which you can let yourself drift, true to the motto: Sleep, Climb, Repeat - the 600 routes are far from being climbed.

Hut tours and Stone Age feeling (2.5-day tour)

But there is so much more to discover, such as the Ötzi discovery site on the Tisenjoch. If you want to follow in the footsteps of the Stone Age, you need alpine experience and the right equipment. If you have both, then the following tour would be an option: From Vent, ascend via the Martin-Busch-Hütte (2,501 m) to the Similaunhütte (3,017 m) and spend the night here (check accommodation options and availability online in advance!). The next day, head up to the nearby Hauslabjoch (3,208 m) and the site where Ötzi's mummy was found. This is followed by a long descent into the valley or an overnight stay at the Martin-Busch-Hütte. Then it's easier on the knees ...

Transhumance - sheep stories or the history of sheep herding

Highly recommended in the fall: a hut tour to the Bella Vista/Schöne Aussicht hut, as 3,000 to 4,000 sheep with their shepherds and herding dogs pass by here in mid-September on their way back to the Schnalstal/South Tyrol. In June, the sheep move to Ötztal for their summer retreat - in the fall, they return to the barn. During the sheep drive, the woolly comrades, along with their shepherds and dogs, cover around 44 kilometers in two days - definitely a special spectacle. An added bonus: the Bella Vista refuge has a sauna and a hot tub.