From the hall to the rock: 5 tips

"Know before you go"

Basics for all rock beginners who want to switch from the climbing hall to the rock, by SAAC mountain guide & Tyrolean sport climbing instructor Gerhard Mössmer: He is a passionate mountain guide and loves being out and about with people and sharing many unforgettable moments with his guests. If he has the choice, he prefers to be on the rock. In an interview with the SAAC, he explains the differences to indoor climbing and gives tips on rock climbing.

1. why actually climb on the rock instead of in the hall?

Gerhard Mössmer:Quite simply, the experience of nature certainly plays the most important role! Why reel off routes in a dusty hall when you can move around outside on natural structures? Of course, it's also about the overall experience of a climbing day with ascents and descents, discovering new areas and connecting with nature. The natural structures of the rock are exciting and offer endless variety with the different types of rock (limestone, gneiss, granite, sandstone, etc.).

2. what is a climbing garden?

Gerhard Mössmer:A climbing garden is a rock face that is equipped with belay points (bolts) at regular intervals and with deflection points at the top. So you always come back to the ground. These routes are known as single pitches or base climbs. In a climbing garden, you will find various routes that are described and rated and thus provide orientation when choosing a route. Climbing gardens are set up and maintained by the operator in order to guarantee safety standards. Nevertheless, in contrast to climbing gyms, alpine dangers such as falling rocks (possibly also on the approach) must be expected.

Tip: On Climbers Paradise you will find over 130 well-maintained climbing gardens with free topos throughout Tirol!

3. what are the differences between rock climbing and indoor climbing? Are there differences in orientation and techniques on the rock?

Gerhard Mössmer : For climbing gardens, you need a so-called topo, in which the routes are described according to difficulty and length. That way you can always find the right route. Getting out of a route is more difficult in the climbing garden than in the hall, as there are not so many other holds from other routes that you can use. The climbing technique itself is similar to that in the gym. However, the rock is more difficult to "read". The solutions are not always obvious, as there is of course no color-coded orientation as in the hall. Climbing a route at the first attempt (= onsight climbing) is of course also much more difficult outdoors due to the differences mentioned above. Over time, however, you get a feel for the rock and find the solutions more quickly.

4. what dangers are there when climbing on the rock or in climbing gardens?

Gerhard Mössmer: Typical dangers are falling rocks from above (helmet!) or rockfalls in the route. You should also always keep an eye on the weather and retreat in good time, especially if a thunderstorm is imminent. When ascending and descending, pay attention to steep terrain. This may also be the case at the entrances to the routes. Always be alert - especially when looking up when belaying. You should also consider the length of the routes in advance when planning so that you have a suitable rope with you. Climbing routes on the rock are often longer than those in the hall.

5. what equipment do I need for rock climbing?

Gerhard Mössmer : In addition to the climbing equipment we know from the gym (climbing harness, rope, belay device), you need enough quickdraws and a sufficiently long rope. This can vary depending on the climbing garden. You may need 70 to 80 meters. A rockfall helmet is just as much a part of the equipment as a screwgate carabiner for possible conversion on the redirector. By planning well in advance, you can avoid nasty surprises in the climbing garden (rope too short, too few quickdraws, etc.).