Winter is coming to an end, the days are getting longer - time to really start climbing training again. We'll show you how to get fit for the rock in four weeks and what you should bear in mind.
The touring skis are gradually going back into the cellar and the time has come again: the rock is calling and the projects that are still open are just waiting to be climbed. However, if you've only been out on skis all winter, it's high time to get some training in before the climbing season really starts again.
Four weeks - one goal
The goal for the next four weeks should be to develop a certain level of basic fitness before you start on the rock and tackle your outstanding projects. Because you want to finally say goodbye to the old routes that have been nagging at you all winter and take on new challenges, all of which you will of course be able to tick off before next winter ;).
Take care of your ligaments and tendons!
The most important thing over the next four weeks is: quality before quantity! Because even if you feel a performance boost again after two to three weeks, your ligaments and tendons still need more time to get fit for climbing. The problem here is that muscles respond and adapt more quickly to training effects than ligaments and tendons. They need longer to get used to new loads and become stronger. This is why you should avoid very small holds and maximum strength moves at the beginning or only approach them very carefully.
New and old projects are waiting to finally be tackled this season, photo: Benjamin Zörer
The four-week plan Week 1
The first week is all about "basic endurance training". I recommend going climbing two to three times a week. The aim of each session is to climb a large number of routes (approx. ten to twelve) one to two grades below redpoint level. Above all, it is important to choose the difficulty level of the routes in such a way that a pump only gradually builds up after about five to six routes. You should make sure that all routes have roughly the same level of difficulty, so that you don't climb one difficult route and then another two degrees easier. That's not the point of basic endurance training! It should be seen more like basic training for ski tours: Here, you also choose a pace that you could theoretically keep up all day. And it's exactly the same with climbing: you should choose a level of difficulty that you can still climb after twenty pitches.
In other words, if you climb redpoint 7a, for example, you should choose routes in the 6a/b range to train your basic endurance. If you don't have a climbing gym or training facility for rope climbing in your area or your rope partner is unavailable, you can alternatively climb laps on a bouldering wall. This way, you can also complete around forty moves on your own. Of course, this requires more creativity, as you usually have to build the routes yourself.
To summarize:
Basic training two to three times a week. Climb ten to twelve routes approx. one to two grade(s) below redpoint level. Pump should only build up after about five to six routes. Take a partner break or a break for about five to ten minutes between routes. It is important to make sure you drink enough fluids, as this training usually lasts two to three hours!
Tip: Basic endurance can be trained primarily on artificial walls. In Tyrol, the outdoor areas of the Imst climbing center, the 'Koasa Boulder ' - the bouldering hall in St. Johann - and the Bergstation: bouldering and climbing center in Telfs are currently open.
Always pay attention to a correct partner check, photo: Walter Zörer
Week 2
This week we start with the first interval unit. The aim is to train strength endurance slowly. However, there are still two units of basic endurance. It is important that you recover well before the interval unit (it is best to take a rest day before this unit)!
For the training session, choose a route that is two to three degrees above your red point level. Before you start, clip the route up to about the twentieth move (but clip at least the next two quickdraws to be on the safe side!) Now pull the rope through so that you have to unclip the quickdraws when you climb up. This is why it is so important that you have clipped in at least two more quickdraws! All your belayer needs now is a stopwatch (a fixed stance is of course also recommended) and then nothing stands in the way of your training. As soon as you start, the belayer will stop the time until you reach the twentieth pull. Immediately afterwards, they will lower you back down. Your recovery time is approximately two thirds of the climbing time. So if you have needed one minute for the twenty moves, your break is forty seconds. After the break, you immediately get back on and climb the twenty moves again. Repeat this a total of eight times. From the sixth to seventh pass, it should be very difficult or even impossible for you to get to the twentieth move. After a break of around 20 to 30 minutes, climb three to five easy routes to climb out. You shouldn't skip this under any circumstances, as climbing out already initiates regeneration and you'll be fit again more quickly this way!
To summarize:
One "interval" unit (twenty moves two to three grades above redpoint level, two thirds of the climbing time=break, eight repetitions). After six to seven repetitions, it should be difficult to climb all twenty moves. Two units of basics (same as in week 1). Don't forget to drink!
Tip: Endurance can also be trained well on the warm sunny rocks of the Galerie/Martinswand near Innsbruck or in Nassereith with numerous long routes.
Week 3
You are now halfway through your training and the basic training is increasingly being replaced by interval units. This week there is only one more basic unit on the program, but you will complete two interval units. One remains the same as in week 2, the other is a so-called lead climbing interval. Here you look for a route that you already know and that is around three degrees below your redpoint level. As the next 20 to 30 minutes will be very intense, you should definitely warm up well beforehand! You now climb the route at the top. As soon as you are back on the ground, untie yourself. Your partner pulls the rope off and immediately afterwards you tie yourself back in and climb the route again. Repeat this eight times. As with the toprope interval, you should hardly be able to top the route after six to seven repetitions.
To summarize:
One unit of basic training. One unit of toprope interval. One session of lead climbing intervals (choose a route three grades below redpoint level, climb eight times, pause = pull off the rope and tie in; after six to seven repetitions it should be difficult to top the route). Don't forget to drink!
The Ötztal also has a lot to offer, photo: Benjamin Zörer
Week 4
Now it's time for one last bite! The next seven days will be very intense! This week there is a project unit on the schedule as well as two lead climbing interval units, optionally with additional basic training. The two lead climbing interval sessions will remain the same as in week 3. If you still feel fit enough afterwards, you can try adding a short basic session with around eight routes after a break of 30 to 40 minutes.
New in week 4 is the so-called project climbing. For this, you look for a route that is two to three grades above your redpoint level. You have 15 minutes to let off steam on the route and at best "boulder it out" to the top. Now take a 20-minute break. The aim is to stop feeling pumped after 20 minutes and to feel well rested. Then climb the route again. Ideally, you should already have a few fewer hang-ups than in the first round. Then take another 20-minute break. Repeat this three more times. After the last repetition, take another 10 to 15-minute break before climbing three to five routes.
To summarize:
Two units of lead climbing intervals with optional short basic training. One session of project climbing (route two to three grades above redpoint level, 15 minutes climbing time, 20 minutes break, five repetitions). During the 20-minute break, take a bite of a banana or bar (a little energy boost never hurt anyone ;)). Don't forget to drink!
Tip: The Great Lines - five excellent routes from the middle 6th to higher 7th degree of difficulty - offer plenty of inspiration for new climbing projects; it's worth taking a look at the lines:
Great Lines, Part 1 Great Lines, Part 2 Great Lines, Part 3 Great Lines, Part 4 Great Lines, Part 5 Further tips
Finally, a few important points that you should pay attention to in your training:
Never train if you are injured or feel ill! Always make sure that your body is well recovered before you start a training session. Ideally, you should divide your two to three climbing days per week so that you always have a rest day between your sessions. As soon as something hurts or feels strange, stop immediately! Always make sure you do a proper partner check! Drink enough! You should be aware that the four-week Last Minute workout is of course no substitute for three months of winter training! The four weeks are not about building muscle mass, but training the existing muscle mass!
... and last but not least, it should always be fun, because that's the only way to motivate yourself for the next sessions. 
And with that, I wish you every success over the next four weeks and a good start to the rock season!
