by Luka Lindič and Ines Papert on 26/27.11.2020
The impressive north face of the Sagwand in the Valsertal valley in Tyrol has always held an incredible fascination for alpinists. This is also the case for Luka Lindič and Ines Papert, who set off on November 26, 2020 to climb the north face in winter conditions on a completely new route.
A report by Ines Papert.
details
Sagwandspitze 3,227 m, north face 800 m
Austria/Tyrol/Valsertal
Rating: AI 6, M6
Material:
1 set of Camalots size 0.1- 2, another set of Camalots 0.3 - 0.75 Ice screws normal pitons Wedges Bivouac equipment Fascination Sagwand
Since the first winter ascent of the "Schiefe Riss" on the steep slopes of the Sagwand by David Lama, Hans Jörg Auer and Peter Ortner in 2013, the mountain has been an ambitious goal for experienced alpinists. We, Luka Lindič and Ines Papert, have also remembered this place as a possible destination for new routes ever since. But the conditions for this are very rare. This autumn promised good conditions with moderate amounts of snow and climbable alpine ice at altitude.
At the latest since the first ascent by Martin Feistl and Sven Brand "24 hours of Freedom" earlier in November this year, our suspicions were confirmed.
We decided to go on an exploratory tour to Tyrol at short notice. As our first alpine route of the season, however, we chose an ascent of the neighboring Weißspitze mountain in the Hochferner massif via the North Pillar, 900 m.
It seemed logical to us to get to know the current conditions at altitude after 20 cm of fresh snow had fallen in the previous days and neither of us had any local knowledge in our packs.
Ester view of the north face of the Sagwand
During the ascent to the Geraer Hütte on November 25, 2020, we were able to see the Sagwand with our own eyes and in daylight for the first time. Inspired by the incredible aesthetics of the wall, we immediately asked ourselves whether the virgin central line through the highest part of the north face was possible. The ice seemed thin in the lower part of the wall. A new route is always an adventure and you won't find an answer until you try it.
Sagwand north face with marked route and bivouac, photo: Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
Day 1 on the wall
On the morning of November 26, we started the short ascent from the hut at 5 a.m. at a moderate -10 C° in the light of our headlamps, only to unpack our sleeping bags again 45 minutes later at the start of the north face. Damn, we were too early. We might be able to find the start in the dark, but we definitely wanted to climb the first difficult pitches in daylight.
As dusk fell, Luka climbed the first few meters of the wall. We quickly agreed to lead two pitches at a time before switching. The ice was thin, but there were always fine cracks to belay on, which usually had to be cleared of ice.
Thin ice, especially at the start of the route, photo: Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
Runouts slowly became a habit, so we had to climb the thin ice all the more precisely to avoid making a mistake.
We soon reached the 2nd step, which became the crux with a small roof and partially detached ice. Later, with the last light of day, we reached our bivouac just 200 m below the exit. Melting snow, drinking and eating something and shivering through the long night was now the order of the day.
Day 2 on the wall
From the place where we had set up our bivouac, our route divides into three pitches with the classic alpine "Mittelpfeiler" and the only lead in the entire wall, a rusty normal bolt in mixed terrain, which proves that there were climbers here before us. There are still a few meters to go in the deep snow before climbing out of the wall via the last upswing in the rock.
Sagwand north face, a really mighty wall, photo: Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
Shortly before midday, we climb towards the sun and are totally happy with our result. Another kingline on the Sagwand has its first ascent and while we are still making the unknown descent via a steep south-facing couloir, we think about a contemporary route name.
A new name for a new route
"Limited in Freedom " - as alpinists, we love the freedom to shape our lives and our ascents with absolutely no restrictions. The current travel restrictions around Covid 19 do not make it easy for us and confront us daily with the possible consequences. Every freedom has its price. Finding that last bit of freedom requires a little creativity and courage. Our Alps offer plenty of scope, with many adventures still lying dormant.
The last few meters to the exit, photo: Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
