Fingerboard - 7 tips for the right finger training

Hello hobby climbers, competition athletes, bouldering boys and girls, mutlipitch fans and sport stools - hello ALL climbers! Everyone has their own reasons for climbing. You might climb for fun, he might climb for an Olympic medal and she might climb for the fresh air. But it's in the nature of (climbing) things that everyone pushes themselves to their limits in their own way - mentally or physically. Be it out of fear or exhaustion: we always want to hold on for longer than we sometimes simply can. And how do we get closer to our goal of holding on longer and longer?

Actually, we already know the answer, because to hold on you need one thing above all: a forearm that looks more like a pregnant seahorse when tense - and finger grease. The former is often caused by the latter, and you can never have enough of the latter - or have you ever heard someone say: "I can't hold the handle, it's too big!"? Exactly! And that's why we want to give you a few basic tips on finger training and discuss the different levels of correct training:

1. the basics of finger training

Finger training is an enormous strain on the tendons and ligaments. Injuries happen just as quickly during climbing as during training. So listen to your body: if it hurts anywhere - it's better to stop training straight away. A single session that isn't so good is far less serious than six months of discomfort.

Due to the intensity of the training, you need to be well warmed up. This means that you have already done a few heavy moves and are activated for the subsequent exercise.

The finger training is at the beginning of the training session - not at the end.

2 The basic posture for finger training

The fingers should be held in an active position on the bar in two ways: one actively positioned (half-crimp) and one hanging. It is important to alternate here and train both types of grip, otherwise you may end up with imbalances!

We recommend about two to three units with the fingers upright and then the same number of units with the fingers hanging. To allow the body to adapt to the load and achieve an optimum training effect, you should not change at too short intervals.

The fingerboard can also be replaced by suitable handles in the gym. This also has the advantage that you can integrate supports into your training instead of bars.

In addition, you should not only focus on the correct position of your fingers. A lot of work is also required of the shoulders. They have to be able to maintain a pretensioned basic position! This means that if you can't hang while pulling your shoulders back down, you should stay away from fingerboard training for the time being.

3. important note on finger training

Finger training is not something you can simply add in as active regeneration. Anyone who thinks it makes sense to do a bit of fingerboard training on a break day is mistaken. Depending on the intensity, you may even have to take a day off afterwards, or at least adjust the intensity of the following climbing day to the finger training.

The following applies: maximum strength before strength endurance / strength-building training before endurance training. It's best to say goodbye to the idea that it makes sense to give pre-tired fingers a real workout on the hangboard. In this case, a very clear: Nope, stop it!!!

Breaks during finger training

Breaks between loads are the be-all and end-all of fingerboarding. So stick to them strictly. Some people like to do something for their body tension during long breaks, others take it easy. You have to find out for yourself what you can handle in terms of intensity.

4. proper training planning is a must

Finger training can replace entire training sessions: It is even possible to do an entire training session building up on the finger board. Of course, this requires the training session to be planned correctly. So here are the most important training parameters for achieving your goal.

Basically, the intensity (holding time) should be selected in such a way that you should actually fall off the handles afterwards as a rough guide.

For more finger fat

If you want to train your fingermax, choose short holds on small holds. If that's too easy for you, hang additional weights on your body.

Finger strength build-up

For more holding time

Finger strength endurance

This method is characterized by long hold times and therefore the ledges must be large enough.

5. how can you actually hang?

You can vary, for example

Active hanging on all fingers without thumbs; grips (sometimes ledges, sometimes rests or hanging and standing); the arm flexion angle; hanging with only two or three fingers, the pairs of fingers must be alternated. 6th insider tip from the editors

One-armed deadhangs: One-armed hangs on larger ledges are more suitable for advanced climbers. If you are starting out with the exercises, you can or may even need to support yourself with a rope. The same training stimuli apply as described above, but one-armed deadhangs belong to maximum training through and through. You will see for yourself that this exercise will challenge you to the maximum. Therefore, take sufficient breaks between repetitions and don't overdo it.

Hanging with one arm is extremely strenuous, but also extremely rewarding!

Right, now that we've trained hard, it's time for the implementation phase.

7. two areas where you can prove your finger power

We have picked out two areas in the Ötztal where you can use the different forms of training:

You need maximum power in the Lands of Giants

You'll find small ledges, steep roofs and sharp rocks in the Lands of Giants. You can put your finger max to the test here (with sufficient body tension). The area has now become a hotspot in Boulderland Tirol and thanks to the guidebook you can easily find all the boulders. You can buy the guidebook in the Steinblock bouldering halls in Imst or Rankweil.

Boulder endurance in Niederthai

You have to hold on for longer in Ötztal's climbing pearl Niederthai. The cool thing here: Regardless of whether I have prepared for short bouldering routes in my finger training or whether I have chosen long holds - here you can find everything from eight-meter short maximum strength routes to 35-meter long, quiet kinglines. Due to the different orientations, you can climb here almost all year round.

You can also find topos in the current Tyrolean Sport Climbing Guide by Michael Meisl.