Figaro 6c+/7a: First ascent in the Wetterstein

40 years ago, two Tyroleans ventured a first ascent in the Wetterstein with a hammer and bolts. Now they are back with a drill: what you can learn about the development of climbing in Tyrol from a route development in the Wetterstein.

They are drilling again

Three sounds remain in my memory from this day and first ascent in the Wetterstein: the whistling of the marmots on the approach, the whistling of the wind in the wall and the whistling of the drill as it drills in. Well, whistling may be a euphemism here, but the Bosch 18V does what drills do: Noise.

But only for a very short time; 25 seconds later, the wind takes over again. A few rhythmic hammer blows follow to hammer the express anchor into the freshly drilled hole, a few turns with the wrench and the bolt is ready. "So Luis, it'll hold for the next 100 years," says Thomas - and ropes down a few meters to find the perfect spot for the next one of its kind.

Thomas Schöpf is my father, Luis Knabl is his oldest climbing companion. Most marriages don't last nearly as long as the two of them have been climbing steep walls together: 45 years. Even if Luis is somewhat of a phenomenon in terms of age, most people probably estimate him to be 20 years younger, including his timeless six-pack and youthful alertness.

The three of us hang out in a gray sea of limestone in the Wetterstein mountains, the rock mecca where climbing history was once reliably written. The "Morgenlandfahrt", the "Bavarian Dream", the "Locker vom Hocker" - all iconic routes, opened by the "who's who" of the climbing elite of the time and still challenging test pieces today.

These illustrious names can be found in the impressive south face of the Schüsselkarspitze, not far from the legendary "Chinese Wall Climbing Garden". We hang a few hundred meters further west of the Schüsselkar, on the neighbouring mountain of the Scharnitzspitze. The wall here is not quite as high and not quite as steep, but still has the same quality of rock. And above all: not quite as densely developed, there is still new territory here for first ascents.

First ascent in the Wetterstein - searching for new territory

And that's exactly why we're here, us and the Bosch 18V. Not for the first time, and probably not for the last, because securing a new route properly is pretty time-consuming as well as the obligatory drudgery. We want to equip two pitches with shiny bolts and lugs today, that's our modest goal for the day.

But why do you even bother drilling climbing routes? Isn't there already enough choice, from short to long, wild to plaisir? "At some point you just want to do your bit and leave something behind. And in my case, it's well-secured multi-pitch routes that you can climb without fear and mortal terror, something for family men and pensioners," says Thomas. And of course, there's also a bit of self-realization involved, and a "see if your body can handle it again."

The two used to make annual pilgrimages to the south of France, to the Verdon Gorge, to Briancon, because you could do something there that was not yet possible in Tyrol in the eighties and nineties: climbing without automatically getting existential fears. It was already omnipresent there, the bolt, and with it the fun of it. "Mei, how often did we have close calls, Luis? In the past, those were wild times. I've been scared enough in my life, I don't need that anymore," says Thomas.

Inspired by the attitude of the French, the two of them, as a rope team, completed what was perhaps the first ascent in the Wetterstein, more precisely on the Schüsselkarspitze, secured exclusively with bolts, in 1993: Mon Cheri, seven pitches up to 8-. This was followed in 2000 by another route secured exclusively with bolts: Wolke Sieben (7 SL, 7+) on the Schüsselkarspitze, which my father opened with Andi Klotz and which has since made many friends as a challenging plaisir route.

But what has not been lost in the 40 years that have passed since this first ascent is the passion with which the two of them approach the element of rock. Gesticulating wildly with their hands, Luis and Thomas rave about the new second pitch of Figaro: "It's going to be a ladder to heaven, huge holes and fantastic water grooves, you can't imagine it's going to be that good," they say with childlike excitement. This is also a great fascination with new developments: The urge to discover, to find out whether something is climbable at all, to find a solution.

Witnesses of old times

The rotten sling that we can see fluttering in the wind a few meters further on from the belay is a witness to more fearsome days. "It's still from us, from the very first attempt at this first ascent in the Wetterstein. It's been hanging there for 38 years," says Thomas. And the story goes like this: back then, Luis and he climbed the Wetterstein once again, there weren't many other options in Tyrol, equipped as usual with a hammer, pitons and crampons. But the line they had in mind came to nothing, a thunderstorm had soaked the entire wall bolt during the night. The whole wall? No, a narrow strip on the Scharnitzspitze was miraculously dry, so the two of them simply climbed up there.

Donnerwetter is the name of the route in memory, but it was never published. Then nothing much happened for 38 years. There are no known repeats, "kind of a shame, because the rock here is magnificent and the approach is easy," says Luis. But without a topo and reliable belay points, that won't change, so now it's time to drill in and make it available for posterity. The new route will be called Figaro, Italian for hairdresser, which Luis was until his retirement in nearby Telfs. And on the original Donnerwetter, the Merchant of Venice will be created with a few adjustments.

Draw lines

The bolt is probably the invention that has changed climbing the most. The movement on the rock is exactly the same, only the consequences in the event of a fall are fundamentally different. And so, of course, is the willingness to push yourself to the limit. When Luis and Thomas were socialized to climbing, there were no bolts, neither on a first ascent in the Wetterstein nor on any other route, far and wide. "If you climbed the Leberle (4+), then you were already somebody," Luis remembers. Back then, going climbing almost naturally involved the uncertainty of whether you would make it home in the evening.

But a lot has changed since those wild apprenticeship years.

The two of them have had children, including me, built houses, taken on responsible jobs - and climbing has since gone from a fringe sport for freaks to a mass phenomenon suitable for the Olympics. You could also say that the range of opportunities has multiplied, climbing has become more demographic.

Those who like to challenge themselves mentally will still find plenty of opportunities to push themselves to the limit on wild routes. But if you don't want that, if you simply want to experience an enjoyable day of climbing in the dreamlike ambience of the Wetterstein mountains, you can now also go to the south face of the Scharnitzspitze. You don't have to get into the Donnerwetter and swear, you can walk the Figaro and just enjoy life.

Topo "Figaro" (6c+ / 7a), Scharnitzspitze

Download the topo as pdf: Figaro Topo

Update June 2023:

Schöpf/Knabl have now realized three more first ascents in this part of the Scharnitzspitze: "Toni 93" (6b+, 2022), "The Merchant of Venice" (6b+, 2022) and "40 Years After" (6b, 2023).

Overview of new routes Scharnitzspitze:

Topo with route overview Scharnitzspitze south face:

Topo "40 years later" (former "Donnerwetter"):

Further information: Approach: From Gaistal in Leutasch it is best to take the (e-)bike to Wangalm, from there it is a good hour's walk straight up to the already visible walls of the Scharnitzspitze. Route: The Figaro (8-/8 or 6c+/7a) is located in the left wall section of the Scharnitzspitze, just to the left of the "Für Madln und Buam" (8-/8) and was completed in June 2022. Descent: Abseil down the route with a double rope. Abseiling is also possible with a 70 meter single rope. Material: Thanks to our Climbers Paradise partner Austrialpin for the hardware! Literature: "Wetterstein Süd" by Grübler/Hangl/Neuner, published by Panico Alpinverlag, 3rd edition 2016