To be honest, the basic functions of quickdraws are pretty straightforward: a carabiner for the hook, a carabiner for the rope and a piece of fabric in between. As simple as the area of application is, the "exes" can still be very different in terms of handling. We let 3 different models from Tyrolean hardware manufacturer Austrialpin "fight" against each other in a practical test: Welcome to the 1st Tyrolean express sling battle! Who will win?
The test area for the battles: The sunny gallery on the Martinswand. Photo: Simon Schöpf
It's a huge stroke of luck that we have so many brilliant rock landscapes right on our doorstep in Climbers Paradise Tirol. We know that, we appreciate that - but what complements this is the fact that we also have a high-quality hardware manufacturer in this little corner of the world. One of the few who still manufacture carabiners in Europe: Austrialpin in the Stubai Valley. A perfect symbiosis, so to speak, because without carabiners, even all the rocks are of little use to us.
1. the opponents
Climbing into the express sling ring:
The lightweight: MICRO LIGHT Express Set 11 cm Combat weight: 78 g Breaking strength: 22 kN Breaking strength with open gate: 7 kN Sling length: 11 cm
The all-rounder: ROCKIT MIXED Express Set 11 cm, with thong Combat weight: 105 g Breaking strength: 22 kN Breaking strength with open gate: 10 kN Sling length: 11 cm
The thickness: ELEVEN Express Set 12 cm Combat weight: 117 g Breaking strength: 22 kN Breaking strength with open gate: 11 kN Sling length: 12 cm
2. the individual battles Battle #1: MICRO LIGHT vs. ELEVEN
The first battle is very unequal: two completely different weight categories, you could argue, 78g vs. 117g! Calculated over 15 exes on the belt, that's a hefty 585 g, i.e. over half a kilo more hanging around your hips with the ELEVENs. This is particularly noticeable when alpine climbing, which is why the weight point goes to the MICRO LIGHT, 1:0, although the ELEVEN then promptly strikes back in terms of rope handling: Wonderfully rounded corners in the rope carabiner allow the rope to slide in and out, whereas you can get stuck in the notches on the MICRO. So weight is not everything: 1:1! And the thick sling goes one better: The wonderfully wide sling offers an ideal grip width for pulling up or A0'ing, whereas you have less grip with the thin MICRO. 1:2!
Battle #2: ELEVEN vs. ROCKIT MIXED
It's a similar battle, but the ROCKIT is an all-rounder and a good fighter in all disciplines: not too heavy, not too light, not too thick, not too thin. Does it stand a chance against the ELEVEN? In terms of handling during sport climbing, it does well, but still loses out to the perfectly shaped ELEVEN due to its hanger at the end of the rope. 0:1! Both slings also have a stylish thong in the ring, the sling holder on the rope-side carabiner, which prevents twisting. So here's a point for both: 1:2! Especially in times like these, you should also look at the price, as the ROCKITs clearly win at €95 in a set of 5 against the ELEVENs at €120. 2:2! In the subjective category of color beauty, there is also a draw with these two aluminum cockatoos, blue/grell green vs. blue/red, a matter of taste: 3:3!
Battle #3 MICRO LIGHT vs. ROCKIT MIXED
In our final battle, the lightweight enters the ring against the all-rounder. In terms of weight, the MICRO is of course still unbeatable, virtually world class, which is why the score is 1:0; when it comes to handling in the climbing garden, the two don't have much in common, as both are armed with wire hanger catches, but it can happen that the lower catch on the MICRO is twisted, which can cost important strength, especially at the crux. So points for the ROCKIT with its pretty thong, where this can't happen thanks to the rubber fixation: 1:1! In the final round, the breaking force with an open catch, which is unlikely, but not impossible, can be decisive in the event of a long, hard fall: 7 kN for the MICRO vs. a whopping 11 kN for the ROCKIT, 1:2!
3. conclusion
Of course, all unequal battles, you might say. That's true, of course, but each quickdraw has its strengths and weaknesses, which is why we recommend them depending on the area of use:
Alpine climbing: Clearly the MICRO LIGHT. In large walls, the weight becomes noticeable at some point, and the special shape of the carabiner allows a fluid rope sequence of half ropes. Sport climbing: ELEVEN, the high-end product from AustriAlpin is impressive in terms of rope handling and is stylish to boot. It is also a perfect projecting sling if you pull yourself up on it too often and is incredibly robust with a carabiner open breaking load of 1.1 tons. However, it is also the most expensive of the slings presented. Ice climbing: The ROCKIT MIXED, because it offers good value for money and is an ideal compromise between lightness and robustness.
Bonus: How is a carabiner actually made?
Bergwelten Magazine visited Austriaalpin's production facility in Fulpmes in the Stubai Valley and was shown how a carabiner is made.
The test material was provided by Austrialpin.
