"Pumprisse", "Tschechenplatte" and "Locker vom Hocker": the three alpine crack climbing classics in Tyrolean limestone are the dream of many climbers. We have the trilogy - created at the beginning of September 2020.
by Martin Sieberer
Our goal
To climb all three routes in three days, by fair means and onsight. We use bikes and trains to get around. The routes are located up to 100 kilometers apart in the three mountain ranges Wetterstein, Karwendel and Wilder Kaiser.
The protagonists
Hannes Hohenwarter and Martin Sieberer from Tyrol. We are both aspiring mountain guides and passionate climbers. A number of factors had to come together for this extraordinary project: our physical and mental fitness, the conditions on the walls and, of course, the weather.
The trilogy 1st "Loose from the stool", Wetterstein
At the beginning of September 2020, the time has finally come. We start with our first route in the Schüsselkar in the Wetterstein mountains. "Locker vom Hocker" was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich and Kurt Albert in 1981 and has been a test piece for ambitious alpine climbers ever since.
A fine crack runs from the ground through the steep slab armor and marks the almost clean 1st length. After a short traverse, there is a crisp slab section to overcome before the way up is clear. We can climb the route onsight. What a start.
After the descent, we cycle almost 30 kilometers and 1000 vertical meters into the middle of the Karwendel to our next hurdle: "Tschechenplatte".
Martin leading in "Locker vom Hocker", photo: Christian Pflanzelt
2nd "Tschechenplatte", Karwendel
A natural jewel right on our doorstep, the "Tschechenplatte". To our regret, the wall is damp and the first crack is completely wet. After a long fall in the first difficult length, we concentrate on the red point. We can climb all lengths freely, even if we feel like we've been run over by a bus after the exit.
Time flies and we are already on the way to our final destination: the legendary "Pumprisse" in the Wilder Kaiser.
Martin leading on the 3rd pitch of the "Tschechenplatte", photo: Stefan Filzmoser
3rd "Pumprisse", Wilder Kaiser
By bike, train and on foot, we reach our overnight camp after sunset in zombie mode. In the morning, exhausted from the exertions, we face our last hurdle. The first length of the "pump crack" is a test of endurance. After a long fall, we both test our bomber friend N°4. After a short breather, we manage the length and the way up is open. We climb the rest onsight and get off completely exhausted but overjoyed at the top.
In the spectacular pump crack, photo: Stefan Filzmoser
You can find all information about the Wilder Kaiser climbing region here.
