Why jam the masses to Lake Garda at Easter when all the benefits are also available north of the Brenner Pass? A persuasive argument in five chapters.
Sure, you can understand it: After the long, hard winter, finally feeling the sun of southern climes on your bleached skin again, finally licking a vanilla ice cream with cream after months of deprivation, maybe even a first, hesitant jump into the still ice-cold lake: for many, the Easter vacation on Lake Garda is the start of a new climbing year.
But the other side of the coin: traffic jams at the Brenner Pass, overcrowded campsites, the longed-for peace and quiet on the rock is just a distant dream. Here are five reasons why you'll be just as happy in Climbers Paradise Tirol.
1. the Tannheimer Tal: the most beautiful high valley in Tyrol
A large part of the fascination of Lake Garda is the Sarca Valley, which stretches northwards from the northern tip of the lake. Rocks on every side, almost everywhere you look, an Easter egg hunt couldn't be more rewarding. There is a small (and quiet) Sarca Valley in Tyrol: The Tannheimer Tal. Reached quickly from Germany, it is like the first serious indentation in the Allgäu Alps. Of course, the Tannheimer Tal can't compete with the opulence of the Sarca Valley, but it doesn't have to: 9 sport climbing gardens, 10 multi-pitch areas, 3 via ferratas ... honestly, who needs more for a week's vacation? And the "most beautiful high valley in Tyrol" certainly has nothing to hide when it comes to rock quality.
The multi-pitch routes around the majestic Rote Flüh, the Gimpel and the Zwerchwand are wonderfully south-facing and therefore ideal for spring as soon as the snow has melted away. From the end of April, the Gimpelhaus, the perfect advanced base camp at the foot of the walls, is also open.
Tannheimer Tal, photo: Simon Schöpf
2nd Ötztal: Viva la granite
The Ötztal doesn't need to shy away from comparison with the Sarca Valley either: anyone passing through here will find it difficult to choose one of the many high-quality climbing gardens. Only one difference: granite climbing is the order of the day here, you will look in vain for limestone. But that's just as well, because rock doesn't get any harder than this. The popular Engelswand with its pleasantly flat wall base (sunny from around 11 a.m.), the equally comfortable Oberried climbing garden (sunny in the morning) or the Moosalm near Sölden are ideal for soaking up the sun.
Engelswand, photo: Simon Schöpf
For the obligatory scoop of gelato after a day of climbing, there are several excellent options in the village of Oetz at the entrance to the valley: At the Vivan ice cream factory or in the Cafe Heiner, you are sure to experience Italian feelings of happiness.
3rd Steinplatte: In the Verdon of Tyrol
To avoid always making comparisons with Lake Garda, let's briefly digress into French: The Steinplatte is the Verdon of Tyrol. The reef limestone in the Tyrol-Salzburg border region is excellent, the sunny multi-pitch routes are unbelievably good, and the range of routes on offer is lavish. The climbing gardens at the top of the Steinplatte are also top: at the "St. Johanner Palven", for example, or in the "Wintergarten", the rock leaves nothing to be desired, hole climbing on devilishly sharp holds is the order of the day here.
Steinplatte, photo: Simon Schöpf
But the Pillersee is also not far from the lovely campsites in the valley, so you'll get that lake feeling again. Those who prefer a more leisurely stay in the valley will certainly not be bored either: the Adolari climbing garden is well worth a visit, especially for families and beginners: the region has no fewer than five dedicated family climbing gardens. The Wiesensee climbing garden is particularly nice, with a roughly estimated three-minute approach, it is easily accessible even for the youngest vertical heroes and is located directly above the Wiesensee lake. If you've had enough climbing, you can simply go splashing around!
4th Sonnenplatten Scharnitz: perfect for beginners
Who needs the Fischzuchtplatten in the Sarca Valley when there are the Sonnenplatten in Scharnitz? Located not far from the German border, at the gates of the Karwendel, the newly renovated climbing garden with its 60 routes is particularly attractive to beginners, and the difficulties are mostly easy to moderate. A place ideal for families: a short approach, a chill area with benches, fountains and slacklines and lots and lots of sunshine.
The routes were renovated by the Scharnitz climbing legend and slackline pioneer Heinz Zak, who was one of the first to bring the idea of free climbing from Yosemite Valley in California back to his Tyrolean homeland. He left behind many ingenious tours in the local crags, many of them wild as a bird - in the Karwendel, the Kalkkögeln, in the Schüsselkar. Not so in the Sonnenplatten, where plaisir climbing is the order of the day. And there is only one option for refreshment after an extensive day of climbing: head to the "Alte Mühle" pizzeria in the center of Scharnitz, where you will find a very special pizza on the menu: the "Heinz Zak" pizza, which you won't even find in Arco!
Climbing in the Sonnenplatten Scharnitz, photo: Heinz Zak, Olympiaregion Seefeld
And if the Sonnenplatten aren't enough, then the Olympiaregion See feld has a lot more in store: the legendary Chinese Wall, a south-facing limestone bar, also offers some of the most rewarding routes in Tyrol, where hard movers in particular will have fun. The Mauerbogen is a more leisurely route, many of the 30 routes are in the 6th degree and offer a few more difficult meters to "top it off" after the first pitch.
5th Kufsteinerland: High end is also possible here
And because Arco is also known for the combination of difficult routes + zero approach + castle in the background: we can easily offer that in Tyrol too. On the Geisterschmiedwand, this historic limestone crag just outside Kufstein, you can reach the routes in just a few minutes, even in flip-flops. And then there's the fortress in the little town, much more opulent than the ruins near Arco! In any case, pioneers such as Hans Dülfer have already worked here, and generations of top climbers have continuously raised the bar, which is currently quite high. Namely at 9a+ with the route "Qui", which was already climbed by Stefan Fürst in 1996 and only found its first repetition in 2019 by Adam Ondra himself(to the video).
Kufsteiner Land, photo: Michael Meisl
For those who prefer a more leisurely approach to their vacation, we recommend the Morsbach climbing garden. Although you will have to swap your flip-flops for approach shoes here, you can be on the rock in a good 10 minutes. It is also sunny and there are a good number of routes in the lower levels of difficulty. Probably one of the first climbing gardens in Tyrol!
The cool water in the Pfrillsee, photo: Michael Meisl
And because nothing is as good as dipping your toes in cool water after a long day of climbing: No, you don't have to go to Lake Garda for that either, just walk the few meters over to Lake Pfrillsee. And think to yourself: Oh how beautiful, the solitude!
