The "Marillensteig", with a difficulty level of 5 to 6 for climbing on the Mieminger Kette, is a pleasure and alpine adventure for climbers who are proficient on multi-pitch tours.
Hooks set up for the multi-pitch tour by Reinhold Scherer
As a native of Mieming and an avid climber in the Mieminger Kette, I know the rock conditions very well and I would describe them in one word: "brittle". So I have to admit, I couldn't imagine that you could climb a casual multi-pitch tour here! But I was proved wrong when we climbed the "Marillensteig" yesterday. It was drilled by climbing legend Reinhold Scherer, who set up the two tours "Adventurepark" and "Marillensteig" in 2008. We took a closer look at the beginner's tour "Marillensteig" (grade 5-6 depending on the variant).
The approach to the Mieminger Kette up to the impressive approach to the multi-pitch tour "Marillensteig"
The Mieminger Kette can be reached from Telfs via Mieminger Straße. The best place to park is at the Forstmeile or lower Stöttlbrücke bridge in Obermieming. From there, cycle (you can also walk, of course, but it takes longer) past the upper Stöttlbrücke and Boasligbrücke bridges to the end of the gravel road. Now follow the stream, first to the right, then to the left, along waterfalls until you reach the rock face. With a good eye, you should now be able to see the hooks of the multi-pitch tour "Marillensteig".
The wall in view
We have already enjoyed this impressive approach, but you should be sure-footed, as both the approach and the descent are in the 2nd degree and stumbling is forbidden anyway!
Important note
The approach via the snow field is currently not possible, it no longer exists.
The approach to the "Marillensteig"
Take care on the approach! One difficult section is secured with a safety rope.
Climbing on the Mieminger Kette via the water grooves requires good technique
The multi-pitch tour runs along very compact, flat slabs and extremely easy water grooves in the upper section. It is really easy to climb, requires good foot technique and a feel for the rock, with hardly any need for biceps or finger strength. A perfect tour for the pleasure climber!
The data for climbing the multi-pitch tour "Marillensteig" at a glance:
left variation 5+, right variant 6-, 350 m, 8 to 11 sl, Reini + Susanne + Hansjörg Scherer Nov. 2008 The descent is via the Mitterspitze of the Mieminger Kette
After the last pitch, continue diagonally upwards for approx. 200-300 m until you reach the marked trail from the Mitterspitze. Follow this until you come out of the forest, from there turn right through the stream bed back onto the forest road.
Perfect rock
Stumbling is forbidden here too!
The descent from the "Marillensteig"
10 express routes are required to climb the multi-pitch tour
To climb the "Marillensteig" on the Mieminger Kette, you need a single or double rope, 10 quickdraws, a helmet and shoes for the descent. Depending on the climbing rope, you will of course need to take the appropriate belay device with you, such as a Reverso or GriGri.
This adventure takes about 5-6 hours from the car to the car, divided into 1.5 hours for the ascent, 3 hours for climbing and 1 hour for the descent
The "Marillensteig" on the Mieminger Kette is a delight
A very successful multi-pitch tour for "beginners", which is very well secured with bolts and many orientation hooks and really a pleasure to climb. I was particularly surprised by the very compact rock and the beautiful water grooves. Furthermore, for all motivated climbers there is the "Adventurepark" right next to the "Marillensteig", a multi-pitch route in the 7+ grade, with approx. 15-18 pitches and 500-600m climbing length.
To the photos of the installation, first ascent and topo
You can find more multi-pitch tours for climbing on the Mieminger Kette here on Climbers Paradise.
Have fun
Your temporary wall fix
Mani