What, you go rock climbing in winter? I'm always asked incredulously how that's possible. For climbers, winter is not just about winter sports, climbing gyms or ice climbing, but about climbing on real rock. Certain climbing gardens are perfect for rock climbing in the cold season. What's more, we enjoy the cool temperatures and the dry, clear winter air, because then the friction on the rock is finally perfect.
What you should bear in mind when climbing in winter:
Of course, there are a few things to bear in mind to have real fun on the rock in winter. Rock climbers' enemy in summer, our friend in summer. The sun. Without the warming rays of the sun, climbing on the rock would not be possible. So firstly, we need nice sunny weather and secondly, rocks that face south and catch the sun's warming rays. The approach must also be suitable. Avalanche danger, icefall and a higher risk of falling rocks due to the snow must be taken into account.
Areas for climbing in winter
We introduce you to some climbing gardens that have earned the title of winter climbing garden.
Jungle Book:
Johanna Moisburger climbs a 7b route in the Jungle Book
The winter climbing area par excellence in the Innsbruck area. Short approach, south-facing and endless climbing routes. It all sounds like the perfect winter climbing garden, but the "jungle", as the locals say, wouldn't be the jungle if there wasn't a piton somewhere. I can still remember my first visit to the Jungle Book very well. I had already climbed a few routes at a higher level of difficulty, but I was immediately brought back down to earth. The slabby, vertical wall structure, the difficult, poorly readable, small-grip climbing, combined with the sometimes wide bolt spacing and the traditionally harder grading, made many an indoor eight-pitch climber give up even before the first bolt. And of course I was no different. It was only after a few visits that my love for the jungle awoke and a few winters later my car found its way almost alone to the parking lot under the Martinswand. There are countless difficult routes, especially in the main section. The classics "Swing Time" 7c+ or "Agip" 7c+ are particularly recommended.
Route tip for climbing in winter
If it's too cold in the main section, head a few sectors further into the Wonderful World. Not only are there easier routes here, such as "Biene Mayer" 6b or "Vecchia Roma" 7a, but the sheltered location means it is often warmer than in the main section.
Climbing and skiing in just one day
And whenever I found myself desperately hanging on the rope, I would pause for a moment, look over at the shady, snow-covered limestone peaks and marvel at how lucky we are. We climb here in winter in T-shirts in the sun and then, if we want, we go skiing on the other side of the valley. A change of seasons and perspectives in just one day and the whole thing right on our doorstep.
Grottenwegwand, grotto:
Celina Schoibl climbs the Gothic route (8a) in the grotto
Another great area for climbing in winter is the Grottenwegwand, also near Martinswand. There are many easier routes in the first sector. Especially recommended "D-Tour" 6a+
A few meters further on, directly in front of the Martinswand Grotte, there is another sector mainly with routes in the 8th French grade.
Mull:
Climbing in winter, in a T-shirt in the Mull
The Mull is a small climbing crag to the west of the large quarry in Zirl. The wall faces SW, which means it only gets sun from midday onwards. It is perfect for climbing in winter in the afternoon.
Recommended tours are, for example, "Il Matrimonio" 6c+, "Aka Mati Sucess" 7b+ and
"Red Bolt" 7c+.
ÖAV climbing garden
The ÖAV climbing garden at the Martinswand offers many easy routes, a sunny location and good protection. Perfect for your first steps on the rock, not just for climbing in winter.
Gallery:
Another climbing garden on the Martinswand is the Galerie. Slightly longer approach, but perfect views over the Inn Valley.
Caution: Danger of falling rocks and the occasional loose bolt.
