From the Kopftörlgrat ridge to "The Emperor's New Clothes": few mountain ranges symbolize climbing culture as multifaceted as the Wilder Kaiser in the Tyrolean lowlands. Climbing history has been written here, a whole thick book of it. But the story is far from over - in fact, it is constantly being retold, right up to the present day.
A rock paradise for alpine climbers: the Wilder Kaiser in Tyrol, photo: Simon Schöpf
And so everyone can find their own personal narrative on the Wilder Kaiser. Whether an easy, inspiring ridge crossing, an alpine classic steeped in history or a modern sport climbing route - the biggest challenge on the "Koasa", as the locals so beautifully call their mountain, is probably keeping track of the sheer choice. Because the crags are so easily accessible between the climbing strongholds of Munich and Innsbruck, pretty much every climbing legend has left their mark here, from Tülfer to Glowacz. Today, the Wilder Kaiser is one of the most famous climbing areas in the Alps - with this article, we try to provide a small guide to the endless sea of rock, which can inevitably never be complete.
Wilder Kaiser: Best Of Alpine Climbing 1st Vordere Karlspitze
Approach to the walls of the Karlspitze, photo: Simon Schöpf
Even from the Gaudeamushütte, the routes are tempting - there is solid rock here in all levels of difficulty. In recent years, some well-bolted multi-pitch routes have been added to the Karlspitze on the south side of the Wilder Kaiser, which are also doable without friends & wedges & fear of death, for example the neo-classics "Wirtskante" (the old innkeepers of the "Gaudihütte" sponsored the bolts!) or "ABS". The routes are reached relatively quickly and a refreshing reward awaits at the hut afterwards!
The developer of the "Wirtskante", mountain guide Andy Schonner, on the same route, photo: Simon Schöpf
Topos & approach: Vordere Karlspitze
2nd Steinerne Rinne
You can't fit more rock in one photo: the Steinerne Rinne, photo: Simon Schöpf
The Emperor's great servants can be found here, where boundaries were constantly being pushed: The names Fleischbank east face and Predigtstuhl west face will leave any alpine climber in awe. The "Pumprisse" route was the first to officially introduce the 7th degree in the Alps, but is rarely repeated today due to its audacity. Next to it, "The Emperor's New Clothes" (10+) boldly climbs up the pillar, once the most difficult alpine tour in the world. For most aspirants, however, a renovated classic will probably be in the tour book at the end of the day, the "Rebitsch-Spiegl" (6/A0) for example. Or the frequently climbed "Thaller-Stumhofer" (7). No matter what you tackle here, this rocky backdrop is unique.
Topos & approach: Fleischbank, Steinerne Rinne
3rd Sonneck
Bombenfels on the Sonneck: "HaZo Fantastica" route, photo: Simon Schöpf
The name alone is tempting: Sonneck offers a small but fine selection of alpine tours that are particularly recommended in autumn. The approach is not exactly the shortest, but that is simply part of the Koasa. You will be rewarded with a magnificent landscape: the mighty walls rise up from the snowy cirque. Together with the descent, however, the routes here should not be underestimated. All in all, a long climbing day that requires stable weather.
Topos & approach: Sonneck, Wilder Kaiser
Experience report: Route "HaZo Fantastica" (8-)
Wilder Kaiser: Best of sport climbing 1st Schleier Waterfall
It doesn't get any steeper: Guido Unterwurzacher in his home area, the Schleierwasserfall, photo: Michael Meisl
Over 200 routes, some of which were among the hardest in the world: if alpine climbing history was shaped "up" on the Wilder Kaiser, then sport climbing history was written at the Schleierwasserfall. Just a few decades later, after the invention of the bolt. And you absolutely need it for this steepness: you should already have mastered the 8th degree if you want to have fun on the "Schleier". Those who do will probably find some of the most rewarding meters of rock in the whole of Tyrol here. Thick forearms guaranteed!
Topos & approach: Schleier Waterfall, Wilder Kaiser
2nd Achleiten
Overhanging walls dominate here too: Achleiten climbing garden, photo: TVB Wilder Kaiser
Although a little further away from the main walls of the Kaiser, it is still one of them: The Achleiten climbing garden also boasts excellent rock quality, with hard routes dominating here too. Climbing here is preferred in winter on sunny days, in summer it is usually too hot for the small ledges.
Topos & approach: Achleiten, Wilder Kaiser
3rd Kaiserklettergarten
Ideal starting point for children and families: the Kaiserklettergarten not far from the Gaudeamushütte, photo: TVB Wilder Kaiser
To extend the "Best of" to the whole spectrum of ability levels: the Kaiserklettergarten not far from the Gaudeamushütte is the ideal starting point for the first meters on the rock, for the first attempts at lead climbing. After all, you have to start somewhere if you want to make climbing history in the future!
Topos & approach: Kaiserklettergarten
