The Zugspitze is probably primarily stored in the collective memory as "Germany's highest mountain". However, the fact that the highest peak in the Wetterstein mountain range (2,962 m) is also "half Tyrolean" is something you will know at the latest if you like using half ropes and quickdraws and are looking for climbing routes in the Zugspitze massif.
High mountain limestone at its finest in the Tiroler Zugspitz Arena, photo: Michael Meisl
The Tiroler Zugspitz Arena - the area around the communities of Ehrwald, Lermoos and Biberwier - is an Eldorado for climbers who like to hang long on the rope. There are plenty of fantastic multi-pitch routes here. In addition, a number of rewarding climbing gardens have been built in recent years. We give you an overview of the most beautiful areas in the shadow of this almost three-thousander!
Best of multi-pitch routes 1st Wampeter Schrofen
Best rock for multi-pitches on the Wampeten Schrofen, photo: Simon Schöpf
If you are looking for a quickly accessible, shady multi-pitch area for warm days and bombproof rock, then the "Wampete" is one of the most rewarding walls in Tyrol. Compact rock with well-bolted routes of medium length await you here. However, you should already be able to climb a seven-pitch route if you climb here: technical slabs alternate with small-grip wall climbs. All in all, a great destination above Biberwier!
Challenging multi-pitch routes on the Wampeten Schrofen: Here the route "Hitzeflucht" (8), photo: Simon Schöpf
Topos & approach: Wampeter Schrofen
2nd Plattspitzen south face
Plattspitzen Süd: Rock paradise in the Tiroler Zugspitz Arena, photo: Michael Meisl
The rock potential here is simply stunning: the Plattspitzen offer everything from leisurely base climbs to challenging multi-pitch routes. The longer routes are dominated by the alpine sport climbing style, i.e. good protection on bolts. And everywhere: rough, water-eroded limestone. The Plattspitzen are located above the Ehrwalder Alm, the best way to get to 1,500 meters is by bike or cable car, then a good half hour's walk to the access points. And for those who have more routes on the program: The Hochfeldern-Alm is the perfect base for climbing on site.
Topos & approach: Plattspitzen Süd
3rd Zugspitze, Schneefernerkopf
This is what 1,000 meters look like from above: At the exit of the route "Zwischen den Toren" (6a+), Tyrolean Zugspitze massif, photo: Thomas Schöpf
The normal route would be boring: a proud 1,000-metre wall leads up to the Schneefernerkopf in the Zugspitze massif, and once you have that many climbing meters in your legs, you usually like to take the train back down. Overall, long, long climbs dominate here with lots of easy terrain, but also some crisp climbing sections. If you take the route "Zwischen den Toren" (6a+), you can look forward to 23 pitches!
Topo & approach: Zugspitze
Best of sport climbing 1st Roter Masten, Plattspitzen West
A long approach is worthwhile for rock like this: Welcome to the Plattspitzen, photo: Michael Meisl
And again we climb up to the rocky sky via the Ehrwalder Alm: the western part of the Plattspitzen offers well-secured routes in the best limestone around the Roter Masten climbing garden at an altitude of 2,300 meters. The ambience is appropriate, and with an approach time of just over an hour, the area is unlikely to be overrun! Most of the routes are at grade 6, so beginners will also find plenty to do here.
Topos & approach: Plattspitzen West
2nd climbing garden Hanger
Hanger climbing garden in the Tiroler Zugspitz Arena, photo: TVB Tiroler Zugspitz Arena
Something down in the valley for a change, with a short approach: the Hanger climbing garden is easy to reach and offers steep climbing in good weathered limestone. Even hard movers who like to climb a 9 or 10 will be happy here!
Topos & approach: Hanger climbing garden
3. climbing garden Coburger Hütte
The Coburger Hütte in the Tiroler Zugspitz Arena, photo: Coburger Hütte archive
There is a lot of rock around the Coburger Hütte: from exposed ridge climbing routes to long multi-pitch routes, everything can be found here. And there is also a small, fine climbing garden for a relaxing day on the rocks: just 10 minutes from the hut, you can train for bigger challenges here, with the climbing garden primarily offering routes in the lower levels of difficulty.
Topos & approach: Coburger Hütte climbing garden
